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SUCCESSFUL 



-\ 



ORICDLTUR 



H 



BY 



DAVID R. WOODS, 

NEW BRIGHTON, PA. 



/^. 



ILLUSTRATED, 



n 



y ' 



Thor u ;li Knowledge is the only positive Key to success, without 
it we walk as one blind, who oft' mistakes his way, with 
it we can not eir in any of the pursuits of life." 



^^1 )M^4 



iSSi. 



Published for the author, to whom all orders should be addressed. 



/^. 



, I 






Entered, according to Act of Cnngress, in the year iSSi, by 

DAVID R. WOODS, 

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 



INTRODUCTION. 



" Flowers," says a writer, " flowers, of all created things, 
the most innocently simple, the most superbly complex, 
playthings for childhood, ornaments of the grave, and com. 
panions of the cold corpse! Flowers, beloved by the idiot, 
and studied by the thinking men of science ! Flowers, that 
unceasingly expand to heaven their grateful, and to man 
their cheerful looks ; soothers of human sorrow ; fit em- 
blems of the victor's triumph and the young bride's blush- 
es! Welcome to the crowded ball, and grateful upon the 
solitary grave! Flowers are in the volume of nature what 
the expression ' God is love' is in the volume of revelation ! 
What a desolate place would be a world without a flower 5 
it would be a face without a smile — a feast without a wel- 
come. Are not flowers the stars of earth, and are not our 
stars the flowers of heaven? One cannot look closely at the 
structure without loving it; they are the emblems and man- 
ifestation of God's love to the creation, and they are means 
and ministrations of man's love to his fellow creatures, for 
they first awaken in his mind a sense of the beautiful and 
good. The very inutility of flowers is their excellence and 
great beauty, for they lead us to thoughts of generosity and 
moral beauty, detached from, and superior to all selfish- 
ness, so that they are sweet lessons in nature's book of in- 
struction, teaching man that he liveth not by bread alone^ 
but that he hath another than animal life." 

The love and admiration of flowers is universal. All 




CHAPTER I. 

SOILS FOR POTTING. 

OME years ago it was believed by many 
that certain plants required a certain coo 
post in which to grow, and that they would 
not grow in anything save this one particular 
preparation. Some of the florists in this coun- 
try, but more in the older countries, still main- 
tain that unless Silver Sand is used, cuttings 
cannot be rooted with any great degree of suc- 
cess, and if anything but Peat and Silver Sand is used for 
potting Camellias, Azaleas and Hke plants, they will not 
do weU. This might have been beheved up to the present 
time, if all plant culturists had lived where these two ingre- 
dients were in abundance, but this was not the case, and 
from necessity some were compelled to try to grow these 
and kindred plants in other composts, and the success at- 
tending these trials exceeded their brightest hopes. We 
confess that plants do better in a soil suited to their wants 
than in one not congenial to their nature, but it is ridicul- 
ous to argue that they will not grow and do comparatively 
well in another composition, provided of course that the 
other composition is not directly opposed to what their 
nature demands. An eminent florist claims to use but one 
compost, and grows all Ms plants equally well in it, but he 
donH grow all kinds of plants, and he has every opportunity 
to satisfy the cravings of the plants in all other respects, 



8 SUCCESSFUL FLORICULTURE. 

which would at least to a considerable extent counteract 
the efieet of an unsuitable poil. To the amateur, who 
almost universally labors under a host of disadvantages, it 
is necessary that he, to be successful, must take advantage 
of every point ; hence we describe the different substances 
that are generally used for potting soils, and in our Specific 
Directions we tell you what preparation our experience has 
taught us to be the most suitable for the different plants 
u'hen grown in pots. If the compost we recommend is not 
readily obtainable, approximate it as nearly as you can, 
and you will have landed pretty safely on one of the step- 
ping stones to success. 

Leaf Soil is not half-rotted wood, but is tlwroughbj de- 
composed leaves. It is easily obtainable in the forests, can 
be found in the valleys or in hollow places W'here the 
winds have blown the leaves. Scrape o# the top and you 
will get the deposits of former years. It i« very rich and 
Invigorating. 

Peat is a black or nearly black soil found in swamps 
and other low places ; is very rich in vegetable fibre and 
as a rule contains some sand. Where it cannot convenient- 
ly be obtained, leaf soil will prove a good substitute. 

Manures No manures are suitable for potting pur- 
poses until they are at lead Jialf decayed (such as have been 
used in a hot bed) they are better when they are sufficient- 
ly decomposed as to sift without much difficulty. 

Sand should be free from all foreign sujjstances ; if it 
is not, it can be washed by putting it in a tub or some other 
vessel, and rinsing it through several w^aters. The ladies 
wiU understand what we mean by this. 

Moss from the woods or sphagnum from the swamps 
is very good to mix in the compost for Ferns, Pitcher Plants, 
Orchids, etc. It should be torn or chopped mtf small 
pieces before using, and be mixed in the soil. 



SOILS FOR POTTING. » 

Loam. This word is often used to mean quite differ- 
ent substances ; we intend it to mean in this case rotted 
sods and rotted manure prepared as follows : In the spring, 
or at any other convenient time, cut from an old pasture 
field, on the roadside or anywhere you can get them, sods ; 
cut them small enough to handle conveniently, and about 
two inches thick ; lay them in a heap, grassy sides togeth- 
er ; between each alternate layer of sods put one layer of 
manure ; (cow dung is best) in a few months chop as best 
you can with a spade, and mix the compost thoroughly ; 
the heap should be turned and mixed several times during 
the season, until it becomes friable, when it is ready for 
use. 

The reader may think it will cost considerable time and 
may be some funds to have a small supply of these soils on 
hand, but they can be obtained at odd times in spare 
moments that might not be otherwise used to advantage, 
and we feel confident that the enthusiastic culturist will 
•have them. They can be mixed to suit the requirements 
of any plant. By referring to our Specific Directions you 
will discover what proportion to use of each of the above 
substances, we may say loam eight, sand one, peat one ; this 
means eight parts of loam, and one part each of sand and 
peat will be the soil in which this plant should be grown. 




aiuTA^■lC CASTLE. 



10 



SUCCESSFUL FLORICULTURE. 



CHAPTER II. 



POTS AND POTTING. 

|E desire to say a few words in regard to the 
pots or vessels in which plants are grown, 
before we proceed to the operation of potn 
ting. We know that thousands of plants 
annually sicken and die because the vessels 
in which they are grown are not suitable. 
We are aware that in many sections of the 
country, pots such as florists use are not to be 
obtained without a great deal of trouble, hence, as soon as 
plants require potting they are put in tin cans, glazed stone 
ware, boxes, old paint bucket s and in fact anything that is 
handy that will hold earth and water. We wish to enter 
our protest just here by saying that nearly all plants re- 
quire air at the roots, consequently such treatment is radi- 





FiG. 2. — florist's pot. 
caUy wrong and positively injurious. Tlie above statement 



POTS AND POTTING. 1] 

is the rule, but certainly there are exceptions to it. Some 
plants wiD live in water ; ihey will not object to growing 
in anything that will supply their particular wants; if 
this want be water, then grow them in something that will 
contain water ; if the want is air, then they must be grown 
in a porous vessel, that will admit a copious supply of air. 

The best pot is the kind most Florists use. (See Fig 1.) 
They are made from the finest fire clay, made in moulds, 
and are " turned on a jigger ;" this mode is superior to the 
old way of " pressing " as by this mode the pot remains 
porous, while by the old way the clay wa.s made quite 
solid and only very slightly porous. The pots are then 
burned to a brick red; if burned any harder than this 
the clay vitrifies, and all the pores are closed ; these pots> 
when burnt harder than usual, are used for Aquatic plants, 
but for most plants they are but little better than a wooden 
box or tin can. 

• Anticipate the needs of your plants, and have some of 
these pots on hand for the plants you have or those you 
may buy. When it is utterly impossible to get pots of the 
above description, it then becomes necessary to use a sub- 
stitute. We would advise that the bottom of the vessel 
used be perforated with a number of small holes, say \ 
inch in diameter and not more than an inch apart. We 
prefer wooden boxes of suitable sizes for small plants, cigar 
boxes cut in two or three equal parts will answer. 

Drainage. We advocate drainage, and claim that it is 
beneficial to plant-life, when plants are in larger than what 
is called a four-inch pot. The reader, who has perused 
other works on this subject, may fear that we are now get- 
ting into hot water and may demand our reasons for mak- 
ing such a statement. Well, suppose we own a piece of low 
ground in a town or village ; it is surrounded by an em- 
bankment from five to ten feet high; when it rains our 



12 SUCCESSFUIi. PLORICULTUEE. 

ground is covered Avith Avater, ■which will not drain off for 
several weeks. We say to our friend the "no drainage" 
florist, we will allow you to use that piece of ground for 
planting out all your flowers. His reply would be, "I 
don't want it." Why? " Because the water does not drain 
oflT." We reply that it does; that all the land surrounding 
mine is higher, and the water drains off'into that, and some 
goes into the clayey subsoil, and in a few weeks the water 
will all be gone. " Yes, that is true ; but it don't drain off 
fast eiiough, and before the water is all gone the soil is sour, 
and if my plants were in it they would be injuicd if not 
destroyed ; the roots on many of them would rot in that 
time." The above would undoubtedly be in substance the 
replies of the "no drainage" florist, yet it is only going 
to the extreme to show the absurdity of his doctrine. Had 
we said to him he could have the ground for planting out 
his Callas, Caladium Esculentum and like plants, the offer 
( had he needed the groujid) would have been accepted. The 
fact is if there is no drainage, or if the drainage is defective, 
the water does not pass away fast enough. 

We have seen in green-houses where the roof was not 
thoroughly water-proof, after a long, heavy rain, some of 
the pots in which plants were groAving filled to the rim 
with Avater, which did not pass away for 48 hours. The 
pot Avas porous, but the pores were filled up Avith muddy 
water, so that it was difficult for the Avater to filter through 
and it remaining so long in the pot would be injurious to 
ninety -nine jjlants out of one hundred. 

For plants in small pots drainage is not essential to their 
welfare, because the pot does not contain but a very small 
amount of soil, and at the most there is but little Avater in 
the pot, which Avill drain off in a short time, even though 
the pot be not porous, if there is a hole in the bottom of 
it. But for plants in large pots, good and sufficient drain- 



POTS AND POTTING. 13 

a^e sliould be provided, aud especially so for such as are 
grown in tin cans, boxes, buckets, tubs, glazed earthen- 
ware, old kettles, etc., because when the soil is thoroughly 
saturated all the air is expelled, and as the water evaporates 
the air again enters the soil ; hence if air is necessary for 
the roots of plants, and if when the soil is saturated with 
water there is no air in it should we not supply a channel 
or series of channels in the shape of drainage, by which the 
fluid may pass off rapidly and permit the health-giving air 
to enter without unnecessary delay. It is almost as absurd 
to claim that the surplus water will pass of through the 
pores of the larger pots in a sufiiciently short space of time 
to do no injury to the plants, as it would be to claim that 
the fluids we take into our body will all pass off" through 
the pores of our skin and we not sufier any in consequence 
of our involuntary retention of these fluids. We think we 
have said enough on this subject to convince the reader that 
it will be better to use drainage. We may touch on it 
again in the chapter on Temperature and Moisture. 

Potting. In the previous chapter we have enumerated 
the ingredients that will form soils for potting. If the 
plants are small the soil should be pulverized, either chop- 
ped or crushed so there will be no lumps to break or bruise 
the tender young roots. For most rooted cuttings a pot 
two inches high and the same in diameter will be sufficient- 
ly large. Geraniums, Feverfew, and a few other plants, if 
very well rooted, will require a two and one-half or three 
inch pot, but for the great majority a two inch pot will 
suit. Our mode of potting is as follows : The pots and soil 
ready, the cuttings (when rooted) are taken from the cut- 
ting bed and carried to a bench or table in the potting 
room ; we then take the pot, fill it about one-fourth to one- 
third full of soil, then place the stem of the plant in the 
center of the pot, allowing the roots to touch the soil in the 
pot; we fill in all around until the pot might be said to be 



14 SUCCESSFUL FLORICULTURE. 

filled to overflowing; then witli the thumbs compress the 
soil, leaving a space of about one-third of an inch from the 
top of the pot to the surface, to hold water. When large 
I ots are used for repotting, leave more space, say for a four 
inch pot leave one-half inch space. Some operators begin' 
to pot cuttings by filling the pot with soil, then punch a 
hcle in the loose soil with the finger, and push the roots into 
tl.is hole, it being perhaps not more than three-fourths of 
an inch in diameter ; the soil is then pressed down and the 
hole is thus filled ; a gentle tap on the side of the pot with 
the knuckles, and the operation is complete. We claim 
that our mode is superior for these reasons : The natural 
teadency of the root Is downward and spreading. The 
cuttirg sends out its roots all around in search of nourishing 
food ; when it is taken from its bed common sense will tell us 
its roots should be allowed to remain as nearly as possible 
in every respect in the same position, viz : Pointing down- 
ward and spreading ; this can be accomplished by the mode 
we practice, but not by the other, because in the first place, 
the hole made by the finger is too small in most instances 
to admit the roots without bendmg the points of them, con- 
sequently they must be piished into the hole ; hence they will 
point up .vard, which is unnatural; and secondly, by the 
mode of procedure by which the hole is closed up ; the 
roots, instead of being allowed their natural spreading 
habit, are crushed together; and although in the hands of 
the skillful operator the plants will grow and in course of 
time flourish, it will take some time to overcome this un- 
natural and consequently wrong mode of treatment. The 
practical florist may say our mode consumes more time. 
Our reply is try it and see for yourself; if it does (which 
we deny) the greater success attending our mode would 
more than compensate for it. The object in pressing the 
soil rather solidly in the pot (now we don't mean to make 
it hard) is that the young roots may "catch hold" of the 



POTS AND POTTING. 15 

soil and obtain nourishment from it at once, instead of being 
compelled to go in search of the soil before the plant can 
receive any food whatever. We now suppose the plant to 
be in a two inch pot ; it must have a thorough watering ; 
that is, the space from the surface of the soil to the rim 
of the pot should be filled with water ; this may be done 
either at the potting table or after it has been placed 
where it is to grow, for the time at least. 

"We now come to tlic process of "shifting," that is, 
changing the plants into pots of a larger or smaller size. 
When a plant has been growing in a pot that is large for it, 
florists say it is " over-potted ;" if the pot is too small, it is 
''pot-bound," When you wish to discover if the plant needs 
a larger pot, turn the plant top side down, just as a lady 
would a cake or piece of pastry to get it out of a mould, 
and placing the stem of the plant between the first and 
second fingers of the open hand, with the other hand raise 
the pot and tap the rim of it on the wlge of a solid substance; 
as a rule one or two taps will loosen the roots from the sides 
of the pot, when the ball of earth will fall into the opera- 
tor's open hand. If the ball of earth refuses to come out 
with two or three taps, give the plant a thorough water- 
ing and allow it to stand until the water drains off, when 
it can be removed quite easily, and by the way, it is bet- 
-ter that the ball of earth be quite moist, for if it is dry the 
roots will cling to the pot and may be broken, and the soil 
being dry, it will crumble and fall to pieces, thereby dis- 
turbing the roots and oftentimes breaking them. 

It is not necessary to give a larger pot until the roots 
become j)retty well matted around the ball of earth, yet it 
should not be allowed to remain in the pot until the 
tender white succulent roots become brown and hard, or 
"woody." If, according to the above, the plant needs a 
larger pot, select, if the plant is of slow growth or " hard 
wooded " (such as Camellias, Azaleas, Daphne, etc.,) a pot 



16 SUCCESSFUL FLORICULTURE, 

one size larger; if the plant is "soft wooded" (Geraniums, 
Fuchsias, etc.,) a pot two sizes larger will do just as well. 
Fill the pot to the depth of one inch or more, according to 
the size of pot, with broken pots, pieces of bricks, or any- 
thing that water will readily drain through, put in a little 
soil and then put the plant in the centre of the pot, fill up 
the space between the ball of earth in which the plant has 
been growing and the side of the pot with soil ; press it in 
solidly with the thumbs or a stick, give the bottom of the 
pot a sharp rap on the pot-ting table and the operation is 
complete. 

If plants are in pots larger than necessary, take them out 
of the pots, carefully shake all the soil from the roots and 
wash them in clean water and re-pot in as small a pot as 
will hold the roots without crowding them ; use great care 
in re-potting, so that the roots may not be broken. If there 
is much tops on the plant they should be shortened until 
the roots begin to work in the new soil; this shortening 
process will encourage a strong young growth. When, 
after their season of blooming is over, Pelargoniums, Fuch- 
sias, and all other plants that should be cut back, as soon 
as they have started to make a new growth, they should 
be treated the same as plants that have been over-potted, 
inasmuch as they have not the same tops and flowers to sup- 
port for the time being, they will not need so much pot 
room. Plants that have been growing in the garden, when 
potted should be severely cut back, and the branches and 
foliage thinned out. Pot in as small pots as the roots will 
admit of; give one thorough watering afterward keep the 
foliage sprinkled but the roots rather dry, until the plants 
begin to grow. 

Plants that are grown for the beauty of their foliage 
and not for flowers will give better satisfaction if allowed 
plenty of pot room all the time they are growing. Under 
these conditions the foliage will be larger and richer than 



POTS AJTD POTTING. 



17 



if the roots are cramped for lack of room. Wliile if 
flowers are wanted they will be more freely produced if 
the plants are not allowed so much pot-room We wi^h 
it understood that plants that are grown mainly for the 
production of flowers should have plenty of pot room Avhile 
making their growth and as the season^ for flowering ap- 
proaches they should not be shifted into larger pots but be 
allowed to flower in the same pots in which they have per- 
fected their growth. 

We believe we have only one more caution to add to 
complete this chajDter. When re-potting, the plant should 
not be buried any deeper in the soil than it has been ; give 
the roots the additional food in the bottom and around the 
sides of the pot ; they don't need it on the surface. 





FlUS. Li AND 4.— FAKCY FLOWEK POTS. 




18 SUCCESSFUL FLORICULTURE. 



CHAPTER HI. 

TEMPERATURE AND MOISTURE. 

EMPERATURE is a subject which de- 
1 mands our especial attention. Many cases 
1^^ of faihire result from an uncongenial tem- 
perature; it is too high or too low. The 
effect of too high a temperature will soon be 
virfible in the weak, sickly growth of the plant ; 
♦ Xj^^^^-? and some plants, Camellias for instance, Avill 
■^'^^ drop their flower buds. If the temperature is too 
low, the plant ceases to grow and the foliage drops off. 
There must be sufficient heat to excite the roots into action : 
all plants will grow better if the roots are five degrees 
warmer than the atmosphere in M'hich the plants are grow- 
ing, as it produces a strong sturdy top growth that is 
always desirable. Many practical florists fail in the pro- 
duction of cut flowers in winter because the tops are warm- 
er than the roots, thus exciting a growth at the tops which 
the roots in their semi-dormant condition cannot support 
consequently the growth must necessarily be weak, and 
the result is no flowers, or perhaps a few may be produced, 
but they are poor, colorless, and very pitiable looking. 
Especially is this the case Avhen the plants are not in pots 
but are planted out in the greenhouse in a great body oi 
soil that it rather difficult to heat. The mode of heating 
must be governed by circumstances and surroundings_ 
Few of us would like to put an oil blast stove in our bay 
windows; an alcohol lamp would look better, and suffi- 
cient heat would be generated by it; in very cold weather 
it might require two such lamps; in a small conservatory 
the oil stove would be decidedly preferable. But the great 



TEMPERATURE AND MOISTURE. 19 

majority of plant growers have Beither bay windo-vvs or 
conservatories, and their plants must be cared for. They re- 
ceive as a rule just such treatment as can be given them, with- 
out in the least discommoding the occupants of the room 
or suite or rooms in which the plants may be growing ; as 
a rule the temperature is too high during the day and too 
low during the night, and the plants in most instances look 
very badly. One cause for this is the owner does not know 
what heat the plants require. In the after part of this 
book, among other things, we propose to give this infor- 
mation ; having acquired this knowledge, the culturist mil 
be better prepared to give the plants more appropriate 
places, as some parts in rooms are warmer than others, they 
will be occupied by the plants requiring a higher tempera- 
ture, while the now vacant cooler places will be occupied 
by the plants from the temperate zones. Plants that are 
grown in the Avindow, where they might possibly get 
frosted, will be greatly protected at night if papers are 
spread over them ; if perchance they should be frozen, 
plunge the tops in a tub of cold water and in a few minutes 
the frost will all have been extracted; if this cannot be 
done, place them where the sun cannot strike them, and 
allow them with the rising temperature of the room to grad- 
ually thaw out; in either case they should be shaded from 
sunlight for several hours after the frost is all gone. As 
we stated above, we will give the temperature in which 
plants of the diiFerent species will flourish. A variation of 
a few degrees either higher or lower will not materially in- 
jure them, especially if the temperature is higher and is 
caused by sun lieai, still we recommend as nearly as possi- 
ble the heat indicated. It must be understood that the 
temperature we give is for cold weather, say from October 
to May, earlier and later as the climate may demand. It 
is impossible to keep the temperature in a house down to 
sixty degrees if the heat outside is ninety degrees; how- 



20 SUCCESSFUL FLOrJCULTURE. 

ever, we can put these plants in a shady phico, which will 
be more agreeable to them. 

Moisture. Plants need moii^ture, not water. A soil 
that is suitable to grow plants in is composed of innumera- 
ble minute particles of earth kept seperatcd by an equally 
large number of air spaces. One object in pulverizing the 
soil is to reduce a hard, solid mass of earth to numerous 
small particl(>s, and render the soil very porous. The object 
in making the soil comparatively firm after potting is to 
make the air spaces or pores small and very numerous. 
When a plant has been watered these air chambers are 
filled with water, and so long as the water remains the 
roots of the plants cannot work, because the particular food 
is absent, but as soon as the Avater drains off (and this is 
why we advocate drainage) the air made moist on its pas- 
sage through the soil fills these air chambers with a moisture 
from which the plant draws its main support. If this be 
true, and we have had sufficient evidence to prove to our 
entire satisfaction that it is true, is it not absolutely neces- 
sary that we provide channels whereby this surplus water 
can pass a way, just as soon as all the earth in the p.)t has 
been moistened by it. 

We have oftentimes been asked by amateur culturists 
" How often should plants be watered." Our reply has 
invariably been "just as often as they become dry." We 
will define as best we can what is meant by the word dry. 
Sometimes we speak of a thing as being "as dry as dust.' 
To allow the soil in which plants are growing to get to that' 
degree of dryness is almost sure death; it certainly is to 
most hard-wooded plants, while its effect on soft-wooded 
plants would be to stagnate their growth. Perhaps we 
can better define the word by comparison. The Avord dry 
(the appropriate time for watering) bears the same relation 
to dried or parched as moist does to saturate. A little 
experience will greatly assist in determining if water ia re- 



TEMPERATURE AND MOISTURE. 21 

quired, but until the reader lias had this experience we 
must give a little more information. Take two pots of the 
same size and fill both with dry soil; saturate the soil 
of one of them with water, then Avith the knuckles strike 
the sides of the pots alternately, and observe the difference 
in the sounds produced ; this tapping may be repeated a 
number of times, until you become pretty familiar with 
the sound, then by testing the pots in Avhich your plants 
are growing you can readily decide which to water; these 
should receive a sufficient amount of water to moisten all 
the soil, and should not be watered again until the soil is 
in the same condition it was prior to having been watered. 
) Rain water is considered the best for watering plants 
because often times spring or well water contains too much 
foreign substances, such as minerals, alkalies, etc., which 
might prove injurious to the tender roots of many plants. 
While it is better that water for plants should be about 
the same temperature as the atmosphere in which the plants 
are growing, it does not matter to ten or fifteen degrees 
inasmuch as that even though the water be ten degrees 
cooler than the air in the room, when it is applied to the 
plants, in fifteen minutes the earth in the pot will be of the 
same temperature by the absorption of heat from the atmos- 
phere, as it was before the water was applied. If the wat- 
ering by coolej; water kept the earth for hows cooler than 
the temperature in the house then such a plan would prove 
injurious to some extent, but for only a few minutes no 
serious results can follow. 

Thus far we have only alluded to moisture at the roots ; 
we now wish to call your attention to moisture in the 
atmosphere iit which plants are grown. There are many 
plants such as the Cacti and succulents, that will flourish 
admirably in a dry atmosphere, but nearly all plants o^ 
1 apid growth and those that carry a great quantity of fol- 
age, require a moist atmosphere. This may be produced 



22 



SUCCESSFUL FLORICULTURE. 



in different ways ; first by placing shallow pans filled with 
water among the plants or on the floors ; by placing damp 
moss or earth on the shelf or table where the plants arc 
growing; or by sprinkling the foliage of the plants; either. 
way will work satisfactorily. Among the benefits to be 
derived by a moist atmosphere are, first — the plants will 
not require more than half the quantity of water at the 
roots, or in other words, the moist atmosphere will not con- 
sume the moisture that Ls in the pots i. e., the food of the 
roots. Second, the insect known as the "red spider" 
cannot live in it. Third, it produces an effect upon the 
health and growth of house i)lants so great that after being 
grown in this way for a few months they are scarcely 
recognizable as the plants that were grown formerly in a 
dry air; The luxuriance of the foliage is sometimes aston- 
ishinsr. 



Elastic Flaut S^rinMer. 



Is made with a flat bot- 
tom perforated, detach- 
able, brass top. Is valu- 
able for "Window Garden- 
ing, Boquet Sprinkling, 
etc. , etc. 

Fia.. 5.— ELASTIC PLANT SPRINKLEH. 




INSECTS. 



23 




CHAPTER IV. 

INSECTS. 

'ENERAL Jackson is the author of the 

t phrase that "Eternal vigilance is the 

price of Liberty," the truth of -which is 

doubted by none in the sense in which he 

meant it. We wish to repeat it in relation to 

the freedom of plants from insects. 

We scarcely know what words to use in order 
v^ to impress upon the mind of the reader in the 
most forcible manner the importance of keeping the plants 
free from insects. These parasites will attack plants that 
are in perfect health, though they are less liable to attack 
than plants that are diseased, and unless they are annihi- 
lated right speedily, the plant, being robbed of its life- 
blood, will become diseased, and death will inevitably fol- 
low. Some of these vampires are so small as to be scarcely 
visible to the naked eye, but under a powerful microscope 
they appear to be monster.^. Since microscopes can be pro- 
cured now by a trifling outlay, we would advise the reader 
to obtain one ; the study of the life and habits of many 
insects Viill prove interesting, and by examining your flow- 
ers when highly magnifled, a world of beauty will be 
unfolded to your gaze of which you never dreamed you 
were the delighted possessor ; but to return to the insects. 
The ancient adage that " an ounce of prevention is worth a 
pound of cure" is so very appropriate and truthful in this 
connection that we cannot refrain from quoting it; in fact 
we want to quote it because it is the doctrine we desire 
to teach. Perhaps the best preventative that can be used 
is to keep the plants perfeoily clean and well syringed, and 



24 SUCCESSFUL FLORICULTURE. 

see that all their other needs, such as moisture, heat, air, 
soil, etc., are supplied ; in fact keep your plants in good 
health, and you will not be troubled so much with insects. 
The benefits to be derived from having the plants in good 
health, is that they will be better prepared to repel the 
enemy or support it until its ravages become visible. You 
may ask, "How can I best keep ray plants clean?" .All 
plants that have smooth, glossy leaves may be cleansed by 
the free use of ivarm water and a sponge ; cold water will do 
equally as well if the leaves are not greasy or glutinous, 
still we believe that with water heated to about blood heat 
the blemish can be more speedily removed. The leaveaa. 
both the upper and under sides, and in at the axils of the 
leaves and the stem of the plant, should all be carefully 
washed ; if other than pure water is used, the foliage should 
h^ well syringed to thoroughly cleanse the plant. For 
those plants whose leaves are soft, and feel rough and hairy, 
better use a brush with rather stiff bristles ; after the plant 
has been carehiily brushed, syringe it with clear water; this 
will wash off the eggs of the insects, if there are any depos- 
ited on the plant. Another general rule is to submerge 
the tops of the plants in clear water heated to no more than 
120 degrees. If this mode is to be pursued, proceed as 
follows: Pour the water in a vessel of sufficient depth 
that the tops of the plant may not be broken; test the 
lieat of the water Avith a thermometer ; if no more than 
120 degrees, turn the plant top down and immerse the tops 
only in the water, withdrawing them as rapidly, as pos- 
sible without breaking atiy of the branches ; lay the plants 
on their sides, so that the drippings may not enter the pot. 
The above treatment is one of the best for amateurs who 
have but few plants to take care of. It will not injure 
the plants if the growth is natural, but if the plants have 
been grown in the shade, and the new growth is very weak 
and tender, it may be damaged; however, this will 'aot 



INSECTS. 25 

4 

injure the plant, as it would be decidedly better wltliout sucli 
a sickly growth. We would caution the operator to be very 
careful about the heat of the water, as well as the very short 
space of time the plants are in it, for we don't want any. 
body to cook their plants through carelessness and then 
accuse the author for giving directions that could lead to 
such a result. The above might be called hydropathic 
treatment. We will now describe the little animals that 
are the source of so much annoyance and trouble, and pre- 
scribe some allopathic medicine to assist them in leaving 
this mundane sphere; and while we give the remedy to de- 
stroy these insects do not forget that it is easier to prevent 
than to destroy. 

Green Fly or Aphis is known to all or nearly all Floricul- 
turists, nevertheless, for the benefit of the new beginner we 
will briefly describe it as we have seen it, with and without 
the aid of a microscope. In color, as is indicated by its 
name, it is green, its size varies from a scarcely perceptable 
object to one-eighth of an inch in length of body, which is 
egg-shaped; on either side are three legs which are jointed 
and have at the end two claws which form a hook-shaped 
foot, the head is small, eyes prominent. We think from 
this short description you will know the animal at first sight. 
The hot water remedy will kill him The fumes of tobacco 
smoke will prevent and kill, but it is obnoxious to most 
people, especially ladies. The smoke may be produced as 
follows: Procure some tobacco in the shape of stems, 
smoking tobacco or stumps of cigars; dampen with water to 
keep it from blazing and burning too rapidly. Have a few 
shavings to start your fire, put these in a common flower pot 
or tin can, (with holes in the bottom) or anything that w^ill 
not burn ; better, however, have something that can be de- 
voted exclusively to this purpose, say an old tin bucket, 
that in its youthful days would have held one or two 
gallons of water. Around the sides of this, about an inch 



26 StrCCESSrUL FLOtSICULXURE. 

from the bottom, punch a row of holes about i of an 
inch in diameter to allow a draught. Inside the bucket may- 
be placed three or four 2 inch pots, on these place a cir- 
cular piece of seive or screen, have a funnel-shaped lid for 
the bucket, Avith a hole in it two or three inches in diameter 
through which the smoke may escape. A cover should- be 
provided for the hole in the lid so that when sufficient smoke 
is diffused the supply may be cut off. This fumigating 
bucket may be made at a small cost and w'ithout much 
trouble. Light your shavings, drop them in the bucket, 
and on them put the tobacco, the quantity of smoke may be 
determined by noticing that when the smoke leaves the 
the bucket it is warm, and rises to the roof or ceiling, then 
falls. When it has fallen sufficiently to encircle the pots 
nearest the floor or table a sufficient dose shall have been 
administered for that time. Fumigating should be done 
not less than once a week, and one dose as a prevenfative will 
be more efficacious than two given as a cure. Other modes 
of fumigating may be adopted, if the above is not practicable, 
such as using a shallow dii^h for the tobacco instead of the 
bucket we have described, and putting the plants under a 
barrel or tub with the tobacco, or the fumigating bucket will 
prove serviceable if a pipe made of tin is attached to the hole 
in the lid of the bucket and let down to the bottom of the 
barrel or tub. "NMien the barrel is filled the smoke will 
escape at the bottom ; as soon as you notice this allow no 
more smoke to enter. 

Blue Aphis. This is identical with the Green Aphis, 
save in color which is dark blue or lead color. This pest 
is more dangerous than the green fly, for while the latter is 
extracting the juices from the tender tops where it is 
readily discernable, this vampire strikes at the roots onhj, 
and the first intimation we have of its presence is when we 
see our pets, especially Verbenas, Asters and other annuals, 
withering and dying without any cause appearing for such 



INSECTS. 



2? 



ungrateful action. When you notice any plant in this con. 
dition make up your mind that some hundreds, at least, of 
Blue Aphis are at work sapping its life blood. This may 
not be the came, but ninety-nine times out of one hundred it 
is the cause. The only remedy that has proved beneficial 
at this stage is tobacco water. Steep some tobacco in water, 
use enough of the " weed " to make the decoction the color 
of strong tea. Apply this to the roots, completely satura- 
ting the soil every day for a week or ten days. "We ad- 
vise in addition to this that the tops of the plant be cut 
back some, and all superfluous tops be cut off. This 
will relieve the roots considerably and will, enhance the 
chances to succeed, which are perhaps very meagre when 
the injury is discovered, as the insects may have been at 
work for weeks and may have destroyed all the tender 
working roots. If the plants are in pots take them out 
carefiilly, remove all the soil, wash the roots in clear water 
and re-pot in fresh soil. 

.Red Spider is fully as formidable an enemy to plant life 
as the Blue Aphis, whilst the latter is secreted beneath the 
soil, and consequently invisible. The former secrets itself 
on the under side of the leaf, and being exceeding small, 
may do a vast amount of injury before its presence is noted' 
Its presence will be indicated by the leaves of the plants 
turning brown as though they had been scorched ; on many 
soft wooded plants, the leaves will fall off. A hot, dry 
atmosphere will produce millions of these in a very short 
time, and a moid atmosphere will effectually prevent their 
appearance. Fi-equent syringing and hot water (120 
degrees) baths will kill them. The vapor arising from heat- 
ed sulphur will operate succesfiilly both as a preventative 
and cure. Do not hum the sulphur, simply heat it. If the 
spider attacks some plants as Dracenas, Palms, Camellias, 
etc., wash as directed in the beginning of this chapter. 
This little pest is very troublesome, and is usually found on 



28 SUCCESSFUL FLORICULTURE. 

plants grown in the house. The only remedy when it 
attacks plants in the garden is to syringe frequently, say 
every morning and evening as long as any can be seen- 
Remember the insect inhabits the under side of the leaf, 
and that is the place that should receive the largest part of 
your attention whilst sprinkling. 

. Mealy Bug is a white or downy looking insect, -in 
shape oval; in size, when full grown, of about one-fourth 
inch in length. From its color and size it can readily be 
seen if present. It seems to enjoy tobacco as well as the 
most inveterate smoker, at least the smoke does not seem to 
be disagreeable to it for it don't even make the creature 
sick ; but just take a feather, dip it in kerosene, (refined 
coal oil) touch the little thief with it, and he wall loose his 
beautiful white robe and give up the ghost. We have 
used the above remedy for more than eight years with un- 
varying success. Gently brush the feather over all the 
mealy looking substances that surrounds the bug and the 
neighboring axil of the leaves, or else you will have a large 
stock of these insects in a short time. This remedy has 
operated so successfully that we now use no other, even on 
the most delicate plants, which should be syringed after the 
insects are destroyed, to remove them from the plants. 
Alcohol slightly diluted will answer the same purpose as the 
kerosene, but the latter is cheapest, and is usually in the 
house, and can be used immediately. 

Thrip. We have not seen for several years and had 
almost forgotten there was such an insect. It varies in size 
from an object scarcely visible, to one the size of an aphis; 
in color nearly black, Avith creamy white rings; it is very 
active, and if disturbed will jump around quite lively. 
Tobacco smoke will kill it, but it requires a strong dore to 
produce the desired eftcct. Moisture is an excellent pre- 
ventative. 

Scale, or Shield Louse. A person must look for 



iNsjiurs. 



29 



these in order to find them. We frequently see green flies, 
mealy bugs, etc., while looking at our flowers, but the brown 
Scale permanently settles down on the leaves and bark of 
the plants, and some species being about the same color as 
the stems of many plants, the culturist, unless he examines 
't closely, may suppose it to be a dormant bud or perhaps a 
"swelling" caused by the sting of some insect; hence we say 
you must look for it. In shape it is oval, not quite so large 
as the mealy bug ; it varies in color from white to almost 
black. One remedy is to carefully wash, rub, or scrape 
them ofi'; we advise that they be washed off using a sponge 
or a stifl" tooth brush and strong soap suds. ' You will find 
that they are very tcrnacious in their hold on the plant, and 
it Avill take considerable time and patience to entirely erad- 
icate them after they are strongly entrenched. If the opera- 
tor prefers to scrape them ofl" he must be careful not to 
wound the bark of the plant ; the rubbing process will not 
come in general use, especially where ladies are the cultiva- 
tors, as it is not a pleasant performance to mutilate the 
scales with the fingers ; nevertheless, if you see one or more 
on your own plants destroy them at once, even though it be 
done by crushing it with the finger, for all these insects mul- 
tiply with amazing rapidity. Kerosene may be used in- 
stead of soap-suds; it will kill the insects, but it should not 
be allowed to drain ofl* the plant into the soil, as it might 
prove injurious; syringe the plant after either operation 
with clear water. 

Vaporizeu. — This 
is the best article 
made for sprayinjj 
cut flowers, and ap- 
plying Whale Oil 
Soap and other com- 
pounds for the de- 
struction of insects 
on plants. 

Fig. 6. — VAPOnrzER. 




30 SUCCESSFUL FLORICULTURE. 

Black Rust. We are in doubt whether or not we, 
should mention this "Rust" in this chaj^ter. The "Greeks" 
are at war ; some claim that it is caused by an insect called 
the Verbena Mite, whilst others equally eminent are positive 
that it is of fungoid origin. We do not propose to discuss 
the disease ; we only wish to describe the " Rust " and how 
to avoid it. We feel perfectly safe in saying that if thes, 
plants are in good health, not suffering from any cause 
whatever, they will not be attacked. The presence of this 
disease will be noticed by the young leaves becoming black- 
ened, and in course of time, if the disease is not checked, 
the young growth will be gnarled and knotty, and the 
plant will eventually die. If the plants are in high tempera- 
ature, by removing them to a cooler place the ravages of the 
disease will be checked, and when first noticed the part 
affected may be pinched or cut off; this will allow the 
side shoots a chance to push out ; they may not be affected. 
See to it that the plants have sufficient pot room, moisture, 
etc. It is said that pulverized charcoal applied to the rust 
spots will prove a successful remedy. This we have never 
tried, for as soon as a plant gets rusty, we throw it away ; 
better lose the plant than run the risk of having all affected. 
We believe this to be the best plan. Keep your plants 
in health and they will not be attacked ; if they are badly 
diseased, throw them aAvay and get healthy ones. 

Mildew attacks principally Verbenas and Roses. It is a 
fungi which is deposited on the foliage, when the plant is 
suffering for want of something essential to its welfare; this 
may be heat, air in winter — particularly cold draughts of 
air, moisture, or it may be suffering from an excess of these 
things, or an excess of one and an absence of another of 
these requisites. Mildew has the appearance of a white 
powder or mould deposited in spots or blotches on the 
leaves ; in severe attacks it will entirely cover the leaves,'and 
not unfrequently the stems also. Put some flour of sulphur 



INSECTS. 31 

in a dredger and dust all the Ibliage until the whole is 
pretty well covered ; in a short time the mildew will have 
disappeared, when the sulphur may be removed by syring" 
ing. 

Worms in Pots may be removed by the use of lime 
water. Dissolve a pound of lime in about four gallons ol 
water. When the water has become perfectly clear, satur- 
ate the soil in the pots with it ; usually one application will 
be sufficient, but it may be repeated if necesity requires it 
without injury to the plants. Another mode is to turn the 
ball of earth out of the pot and remove all the worms that 
can be seen. 

Rose Slugs. This insect varies in size according to age, 
from one-sixteenth to one inch in length, in color is a light 
green ; they increase very rapidly and soon destroy all the 
upper surface of the foliage, leaving the veins and skin 
underneath, which looks browned or scorched. The better 
. way to deal with this slug is to anticipate his attack and 
fortify against him. In the spring, as soon as the buds 
begin to swell, syringe the plants well with a preparation 
made by dissolving one-half pound of whale oil soap in 
five gallons of water. As soon as the leaves make their 
appearance, use this daily for two weeks, or longer, if 
you notice any slugs on your bushes. Where this soap is 
not obtainable, the foliage may be dusted pretty thoroughly 
with road dust, ashes, sulphur, plaster of paris or tobacco 
ashes. There is another species which attacks the young 
monthly roses; it consumes the whole of the leaf; they do 
not appear in as large numbers as the species which attacks 
the hardy roses, hence are more easily subdued ; the most 
effective remedy is hand picking. 

Rose Bug or Chafer. This bug is exceedingly fond ot 
the flowers, and will eat nothing else so long as these can be 
"procured; they come without warning, and almost before we 
are cognizant of their presence, our queens of the garden are 



32 SUCCESSFUL FLORICULTURE. 

robbed of tlieir crowns, This enemy eats a hole in the 
blossom or half open bud, and conceals itself therein as long 
as it can find something to eat, but it is not the least bit 
Dashful, for it soon consumes the whole flower, and it 
there be no more Roses Bear, it flies to pastures new. We 
nave found it very destructive on some of the hardy shrubs ; 
one season especially they destroyed nearly all the flowers ' 
on Deutzia Crenata Flore Pleno. "VVe knoAV of nothing to 
prevent the attacks of this bug, nor anything to kill them 
without injuring the flowers, except hand picking, or a 
speedier mode will be to spread sheets under the bushes, 
shake the bushes and the bugs will fall on the sheets ; they 
can be collected and destroyed. 

Snails. Scatter air slacked lime all over the surface 
of the table, and the snails will not travel over it ; if 
caught or seen, sprinkle salt over them ; it is a positive kill 
every time. 

Ants. These are sometimes very annoying. The easiest 
and most eflective way to get rid of them is to lay a fresh 
bone near their haunts ; in a short time this Avill be covered 
with the ants, when the bone may be dropped in boiling 
water. The bone may be used a number of times, so long 
as the ants remain. 

The remedies we recommend the reader will notice are 
familiar to us all, and are such as may be found at any time 
in almost every home in our land. We might have offered 
more remedies, but we consider one good one is sufficient 
for each insect. Another fact please notice ; the remedies 
spoken of we have experimented with and know that they 
will produce thedesired effect if used as we recommend. 




WINTER BLOOMING PLANTS. 33 



CHAPTER V. 

WINTER BLOOMING PLANTS. 

jE have sliowu that in another chapter plants 
breathe ; this is not the only particular in 
which they resemble the human family. 
They also need rest, just as we do. It seems 
to be the mission or work of many plants to 
produce flowers, others to producfe their beau- 
tiful foliage. We can not expect these 
plants to produce their flowers or foliiige all 
the year without any rest. Those that are grown for 
their flowers, such an Geraniums and Fuchsias, in the 
autumn cease blooming and take unto themselves a season of 
rest. Those that are grown for their elegant variegated 
foliage, while many of them retain their leaves they do not 
grow, if at all, with that vigor they do at other seasons. 
All plant culturists have no doubt noticed this. From it 
we learn that if we would have flowers all the year we 
must select those which naturally, in our climate, bloom at 
different sea^ons. It is true that we can force some varieties 
nto bloom out of ilicir usual season, but this is the excep- 
tion, not the rule, and they must be rested before we begin 
to force them, or our efforts will result in failure. We will 
suppose first that wc will get those that will naturally 
bloom in our winter, such as Bouvardias, Carnatioiis, 
Stevia, Eupatoriunis, &(•. It ii^ best to get young plants 
in the spring ; as soon as danger from frost is over these 
should be taken out of the pots and planted in the garden; 
during the suninier these must be kept free from weeds, 
and if ihe plants \\\]] not grow bushy without it. the tops 
should be piu'^hed or.f several times during the sunnuer, this 



34 SUCCESSFUL FLORICULTURE. 

will keep the plants short and stocky and tend to strengthen 
the branches. As a rule the flowers are produced on the 
points of the branches, so the more strong branches there 
are the more flowers will bo produced. The plants in- 
tended for winter blooming should not be allowed to flower 
during the summer, as some varieties would if permitted ; 
as soon as the flower buds appear they should be pinched 
off. These plants should be lifted and potted at least a 
month before it is necessary to permanently remove them 
'•p their winter quarters. 

In our latitude we usually have plentiful rains in Sep- 
tember. After the soil in the garden is pretty well satura- 
ted we begin to lift these plants; many of them are not pot- 
ted, but are planted out on the benches in the greenhouses. 
All are lifted very carefully, allowing all the soil to remain 
on the roots that will. After the plants are lifted and be- 
lore they are potted we remove all the soil we can without 
greatly exposing the roots, the object in this is to put the 
plant in as small a pot as the roots will admit of In this 
operation great care and judgment must be used not to 
seriously injure the roots by breaking or exposure. Remem- 
ber that the plants will need but little pot room for new 
roots, and that if the pots are too large some of the plants 
will groAV too much and bloom but little, and also that if 
there is more soil in the pots the plants will feel just like a 
person who has eaten too much and is suffering fi-om an 
overloaded stomach. Such a person is uot in fit condition to 
do much work, and neither are plants in such a condition. 
They will be potted in accordance with directions given in 
the chapter devoted to that subject. Immediately after 
potting they should be thoroughly watered and placed in a 
shaded position in as moist an atmosphere as possible, pro- 
tected from drying winds. In about a week or ten days 
they will have partially recovered and may be given 
sunlight until nearly noon ; after another Aveek they may 



WINTER BLOOJIIXG PLANTS. 35 

be given full sunliglit. We ahvays prefer to lift tlie plants 
in dull, cloudy -weather. When the season has so far ad- 
vanced that at night the thermometer indicates forty de- 
grees or less the plants should be protected by removing 
them to a warmer place for the night. During the day 
when the thermometer in the shade outside indicates fifty 
degrees or more, the plants will be better in the open air 
until evening. The plants should not be allowed to become 
cldlled, as at this season it might blast all hopes for future 
flowers. The plants that require a winter temperature oi 
sixty degrees will chill at a higher temperature than those 
that only require forty-five degrees of heat, so you must be 
governed according to these requirements. 

If you have no garden in which to grow these plants in 
summer they can be grown successfully in pot«, (and per- 
haps this is the best mode for the amateur to pursue,) in 
fact such plants as Camellias and Azaleas are seldom 
planted out, and only need re-potting while young once a 
year. Large plants are only re-potted every alternate year 
or only once every third year, and always immediately 
after they have done blooming. Roses for winter blooming 
should be grown in pots all summer. The followicg treat- 
ment is suited for all soft wooded plants that are grown 
in pots for winter blooming : The young plants are potted 
in what we call four inch pots. A bed is arranged in the 
yard or garden, (where the plants will have morning sun- 
light,) by digging and pulverizing the soil to the depth of 
six inches or more. After the plants are potted the pots 
are sunk in the soil until the top of the pot is level with the 
surface of tl:e soil. These will require more care in water- 
ing; they should never be allowed to suffer from want of 
moisture ; if draining has been properly attended to they 
cannot suffer fi-om excess of it. Probably twice durmg the 
season they will require shifting into larger j)ots, when, you 
can readily tell from the appearance of the roots. The 



36 



SUCCESSFUL FLOEICULTURE. 



pots must be moved around occasionally to prevent the 
roots from coming through the liolo in the bottom of the 
pot. The plants should not be shifted into larger pots later 
tlian September, as l)y that time they should be in large 
enough pots to keep them all winter ; neither should the 
tops be pinched out later than the first of September; let 
them develop flowers after that time ; later in the season 
protect from chilly weather in the same way as before 
recommended, and for general and s^^ecific treatment sec 
other parts of this book. 




FlO. 7. — GLASS AqUAlUUM A.2iD FLOWER STAND 



WINTER PEOTECTION. 



37 




CHAPTER VI. 
Winter protection. 

N otlier parts of this work we give direc- 
tions liow plants and bulbs may be grown 
during tbe winter. The object of this chapter 
is to suggest means to save or preserve those 
plants that we have become so attached to that 
we do not like to see them killed by frost ; we 
cannot hope to do more than keep them in a 
comparatively dormant condition ; they would not be orna- 
mental in the parlor or window-garden, so they must be 
consigned to the cold-pit or cellar. If a large number of 
plants are to be cared for, a cold-pit or frame may be pre- 
pared as follows : Select the dryest situation in the garden, 
and excavate the soil to the depth of from three to five feet. 
If water is found at this distance, it must be drained off, 
as it is of the utmost importance that the atmosphere and 
soil be moderately dry, otherwise the plants will mould or 
rot off, and the deciduous phmts and bulbs will start to 
grow and will consequently be damaged if not entirely 
spoiled. The pit may be made any size desired ; the inside 
may be boarded up, or if the intention is to make it per- 
manent, it should be built of brick or stone. The south 
walls may be built two feet above the level of the soil, and 
the north wall eight to ten inches higher ; the east and west 
walls gradually rise from the level of the south wall to the 
level of the north wall. This shape gives a southern ex- 
posure, which is preferable, but not necessary for the plants, 
Shelving should be made for the inside ; this should be 
arranged two feet from the floor or bottom of the pit ; if 
the pit be five feet in depth two rows of shelves may be used 



38 SUCCESSFUL FLORICULTUKE. 

under tliis sliclving we can " heel in," (that is plant or bed 
out just as we would in the garden,) such deciduous plants 
as Lemon Verbenas, Hydrangeas, Pomegranates, Pampas 
Grasses, Crape Myrtles, etc. On the shelves we can keep 
tender bedding and pot plants, such as Geraniums, Helio- 
trope, Fuchsias, Pelargoniums, Monthly Eoses, Carnations, 
Abutilons, etc. These plants should be potted at least a 
month before it is necessary to put them in such a pit. As' 
we have said, this pit is only intended to keep them in 
hence in order to be successful they must be well estab- 
lished, strong and healthy. The pots may be sunk in 
ashes, saw-dust, or some other porous substance; this will 
save them from drying out so fast, for the less water you 
give them, without allowing them to wither for want of it, 
the better they will be. The surface or roof of the pit must 
be of glass ; in building the pit take this into consideration, 
and make it of a size that you can get sash to cover it, sash 
are usually made six feet long by three feet wide this is a 
very convenient size to handle. When the weather will 
permit, the sash should be raised to give the plants air and 
dry up the damp. For cold weather straw mats or board 
shutters, or both, should be provided to cover the sash, and 
in very cold weather it may become necessary to use 
additional covering. The cooler the frame can be kept the 
better, not allowing the temperature to go below thirty -five 
degrees nor above fifty degrees. On the approach of cold 
weather the wall should be banked up to a level with the 
glass, with soil or manure. If but a few plants are to be 
wintered over, they may be kept in the cellar. Such as we 
have said will do under the shelving of the cold pit, will do 
very well in a comparatively dark, cool, dry cellar. Those 
that we have allowed to live on the shelves must have some 
light, or they will perish. Erect shelves near the cellar 
windows ; on these shelves put the plants ; they should be in 
the same established state as if they were to be placed in a 



WINTER PROTECTION. 



89 



cold frame. Enough water to keep ttem from withering is 
all they need. The temperature should be from forty to 
forty-five degrees, not higher, or they will make a weak 
blanched growth, which may prove fatal. 




Fi». 8.- 



-TErpiA COTTA STATUTE FOR LAWN, PARLOK OB 
VERANDA ORNAMENT. 




40 SUCCESSFUL FLOKICULTURE. 



CHAPTER VII. 

PROPAGATION. 

J ERE we intending to write fill that might 
properly be written on this subject we would 
need a good sized volume for it alone, but as 
our object is to treat of it only so far as it re- 
lates to flowers and that for the benefit of the 
amateur we will Avrite as briefly as the im- 
portance of the subject will permit. 

We shall take into consideration four dis- 
tinct methods of propagating, viz: -By cuttings, layers, 
root cuttings and oftsets. To proj)agation by seeds we will 
devote a seperate chapter. 

Propagation by Cuttings is the source from whence 
most of the plants sold by our florists are derived, It is 
in many respects a simple operation yet one which requires 
constant care and attention, from the beginning to the end. 
Those plants which in oth.er chapters we have designated as 
" soft wooded " are most of them readily increased by cuttings 
of the branches, these cuttings may vary in length from two 
to five inches owing to the nature of the plant. As a rule 
the softer the wood is, the sooner the cutting will root and the 
roots will be stronger and healthier. All these cuttings are 
prepared in about the same way a new shoot or branch is 
selected and with a sharp knife is severed from the parent 
stem, it is immaterial whether it be at a joint or not (how- 
ever in most instances joint is preferable providing the 
wood is not to old or hard) the lower leaves are trimmed 
ofi* and the cutting is rendy for insertion in sand or any- 
thing else that will hold moisture and not become hard, we 
prefer sand as it is so clean to work with and answers the 



PEOPAGATION. 41 

purpose as well as anytliing that we have tried. There 
are now two gyf*teins that we may pursue. The first we 
recommend for cuttings in the autumn and winter, the 
second for spring and early summer. The presumption 
is, the reader has no greenhouse and these cuttings must be 
propagated without bottom heat that is without means to 
supply a few degree* more heat at the bottom of the cut- 
tings than at the top. The first mode is, ol)tain a wooden 
box or any other porous article say four inches in depth 
any width and length desired see that there are sufficient 
holes in the bottom tq secure good drainage cover the bot- 
tom to the depth of one or one and one-half inches with 
broken pots, moss, charcoal or anything that water will 
readily pass through, uoav fill the box with sand and give 
a thorough watering after which the cuttings may be in- 
serted avoid over crowding leave enough space between the 
cuttings to alloAV a free circulation of air. The cuttings 
should never be allowed to get so dry that they wilt, nor 
•should the direct rays of the sun be permitted to shine on 
them give plenty of light but not sunlight, the major- 
ity of them will be rooted in from ten to twenty days and 
should be potted as soon as the roots are from one-half to 
one inch in length. Cuttings from old wood and half ripe 
wood will root in these conditions but they will require a 
longer time and the amateur need not expect to be quite as 
successful with them. 

The second system is, instead of using a porous vessel to 
use one that will hold water, a glass or queeuswai-e vessel 
two to three inches in depth, will answer, fill this with sand 
insert the cuttings and saturate the sand with water and 
keep it thorour/hli/ saturated until the cuttings are rooted, 
these cuttings should be jjlaced where they will obtain all 
the sunlight possible. 

The reader who has or can have a hot bed made in the 
spring will find it very profitable for rooting cuttings, pre- 



42 SUCCESSFUL FLOEICULTUKE. 

pared in the usual way and two inclies of sand being 
placed on the soil in which the cuttings are to be inserted 
and in which the rooted cuttings can be plunged after they 
are potted. At this time of the year, the plants we have 
been keeping in the house over winter should have plenty 
of wood on them that will be suitable for cuttings and we 
can propagate enough for the garden, and for house plants 
the next winter which should be propagated in the spring 
and grown in pots all summer so thej'^ may be large enough 
to give us plenty of flowers through the winter and by the 
way t his bed will still have some heat, in it in September, 
when we can jiropagate from half ripe wood roses and 
hardy sliniMs of various kinds as well as most of our soft 
wooded plants which if well cared for through the Avinter 
will make fine large plants for bedding out in the spring. 
The treatment of these cuttings is precisely the same as 
that recommeded for system first. 

Increasing by means of layers in the best mode for the 

amateur to pursue when the plants can be rooted by this 

means as failure is almost impossible. In some varieties 

this is not practicable but in ma'hy it is such as Hardy 

Roses, Shrubs of diflerent kinds many vines and in fact 

rao^t hardy plants. Nature seems to have provided this 

plan for the increase and iierpetuation of some plants 

^ so readily are the roots emitted, 

\^^' ^>\1^ this is especially noticible with 

IM '^^^P^y Honeysuckles, Strawberries, 

(w 11*^ ^f^^ Violets, Hydrangea Panicu- 

1/ ^*^^^^l^^ lata grandiflora, and others we 

(Iv^^ lljPx I /f\ might name, where all that is 

^r ft\ R^ "^^F^^li^^ necessary is to allow the 

^-Jl|^ '^^[^^j W'*v^^ branches to touch the soil, 

^^X %^ ^ when in a short time they will 

^^^^r^ be sufliciently rooted to bear 

' removal with impunity. It 



PROPOGATION. -: . 

will frequently aid nature materially if we will peg down 
(see Fig 9) tlie layer to prevent its position being changed by 
the wind as well as avoiding mutilating the young roots. 
If more than one plant is desired from each branch 
the whole branch may be pegged down (Fig. 10) and covered 




^ Fig. 10. 

to the depth of two to three inches with soil if this is done 
in autumn, in the spring following almost every bud will 
sprout, throw up a stem, (Fia 11) which in the autumn will be 




Fig. 11. 
ready for removal to the place it is to ornament. In the 
plants just spoken of, nature will make a rooted plant from 
a layer without the assistance of man yet with other plants 
man's aid is required, a familiar example of this is the rose, 
a branch of a rose may be bent and pegged down to the 
earth and if the bark be not injured it may never root but 
continue to derive it's nourishment from the parent plant. 
To overcome this the operator performs what is called 
•'Tongueing" this is done by cutting the branch about 
half way through extending the cut along the branch 
from two to three inches, this cut to be made at such a 
point that it will be in the soil when the branch is 
pegged down. After the cut is made the branch is 
slight twisted to that the tongue will be partially free 



44 BUCCESSFUL FLOEICtnLTUEE. 

from the parent stem, this slight twist will restrain the 
flow of sap and thereby encourage the early formation 
of roots. In order to be successful with this mode of 
propagation we must take into consideration the con-' 
dition of the layer and the time for doing the v:.)rk. The 
cut should be made where the wood is a month to six weeks 
old, in this condition the roots will be emitted more rapidly 
and will be stronger than if the wood is older ; the opera- 
tion may 1)6 performed at any time when the Viood can be 
found in the condition above stated but the earlier in the 
season the better as the layer will have time to have formed 
plenty of roots in the autumn. 

The better plan where the incision is made is instead of 
burying the cut portion of the branch in the soil is to 
plunge a four inch pot into the soil to the depth of the pot 
fill it with sandy soil and bury the cut portion in the pot 
when the layer is rooted all the roots will be in the pot and 
can be removed at any time without injury or check to the 
new growth of the young plant. If under any circum- 
stances the layer will not reach the earth the pot can be 
imbedded in a elevated box of soil until the layer is rooted. 
We must be careful that the layer should not be allowed to 
become dry after being cut this would at least injure our 
chances of success, if not totally destroy them. Some 
plants may be increased by removing the sprouts or suckers 
that are thrown up from the root often in such quantities 
as to become a nuisance. We can greatly encourage the 
formation of roots by these sprouts or suckers by making 
a mound of soil around the plant partially burying all the 
plant as shown by Fig. 11, allow this to remain for one year 
when it may be removed in the early spring and almost all 
the sprouts will have developed roots sufiicient to sustain 
life when each sprout may be removed to the place in- 
tended. We can hasten still more the formation of roots 
by slightly tongueiug each shoot or by slitting the bark so 



PROPAGATION. 



45 



that the tongue or slit will be buried in the soil -when the 
mound is made. 




Fig. 11. 

Root Citttings. The roots of some plants such as 
Bouvardias among house plants, Calycanthus (sweet scented 
Shrub) among hardy plants, and Passiflora Incarnata 
among the vines contain latent buds which under suitable 
conditions become fully developed and in a short time a 
stem is produced. To increase our plants in this way select 
the thick fleshy roots cut into pieces about an inch in 
length sow or plant these just as we would seeds; cover 
with about a fourth of an inch of fine sandy soil the after 
treatment will be the same as for branch cuttings of young 
wood or for tender seed sown in boxes in the house only 
shading will not be absolutely necessary. 

Offsets. Most bulbs are rapidly increased by offsets or 
bulblcts, many produce seeds freely but at the best this is 
a slow mode of production and we cannot be sure that the 
seedling will be equal to the parent until it has bloomed. 
Some bulbs upon examination after blooming, when ripened 
will be found to have formed two distinct bulbs which 
though connected are susceptible of division without injury. 
The reader has perhaps noticed this ; Lilies, Gladiolus, Tigri- 
dias etc., on a suitable soil these bulbs will at least be in- 



46 SUCCESSFUL FLORICULTURE. 

creased 100 per cent each year. But even this mode is not as 
rapid as most culturists desire and if it were all bulbs will 
not increase in this way. Take the cyclamen for instance 
we can grow it for ten years and will not have any in- 
crease by natural division (except the croAvn decay) or off- 
sets yet it seeds freely and the seeds germinate without any 
extra amount of care and in two years from the seed we 
can have a strong flowering bulb. 

In treating of the propagation of bulbs we shall divide 
them into three classes. First the coated, such as the 
Hyacinth Amaryllis and Tuberose. Second, the solid 
bulb or corm such as Cyclamen or Gladiolus. Thidr, the 
scaly, of which the Japan Lily is a familir.r example. 
J The first class naturally increase quite rapidly by offsets 
formed at the base of the bulb proper and grow up around 
the parent bulb. In the dormant season all these offsets 
should be removed and be planted out at the proper time. 
Some few of these oflsets may produce a blooming bulb fox* 
the following season but most will not bloom until the 
second or third year it requiring this much time for the 
young bulbs to gain sufficient feculent matter to produce 
and support a flower stalk. These young bulbs will require 
tlie same treatment as a flowering bulb of the same species. 
In the second class, Nature plays an important part by 
dividing the bulb or rather when the bulb begins to grow 
two or more eyes are thrust into prominence which in the 
course of the season form bulbs many of which will bloom 
during the next season • frequently in addition to this a 
number of small buds will be found clustered around the 
base of :he larger bulb, some of the bulbs in this class are 
not divided by nature such as the Gloxinia and Cyclamen, 
but these seed freely and the Gloxinia Is readily increased 
by cuttings of the leaf, allow a portion of the leaf stem to 
remain insert this in sand treat it just as you would a 
branch cutting when rooted pot off in small pots and by 



PROPAGATION, 47 

the time the blooming bulbs have completed their growth 
this will be found to have formed a bulb a half an inch in 
diameter. In addition to increasing this class by the 
modes above alluded to, the large bulbs may be cut, in pieces 
they will each produce other bulbs, which in time will regain 
their natural form and may again be subjected to the same 
course of treatment. 

The Third class or scaly bulbs are propagated by divis- 
ion, offsets, scales and in some species by stem bulbs pro- 
duced on the stem either above or in the soil, all being sus- 
ceptible of increase by seeds. AVhen the bulbs after bloom- 
ing are ripened, which is indicated by the foliage and stem 
dying, we lift the bulbs, we will find that many of those 
that have flowered will have formed two distinct bulbs 
which can be seperated ; this will double our stock, then we 
will find probably from five to ten bulblets attached to the 
flower stem at the top of the bulb these may be carefully re- 
moved from the stem and taken care of in the same way as 
Lily scales, A careful examination of a scaly bulb will 
show us that the scales in and around the centre of the bulb 
form a solid bulb while the scales around the outside are 
loose and easily detached or broken off' and may be removed 
without injuring the bulb ; each of these scales if planted in 
a sandy compost will form in from two to three months one 
or two bulblets which if cared for will form blooming 
bulbs in from two to four years. These scales and bulblets 
grown in shallow boxes filled with a sandy soil for one may be 
year after which they may be planted out in the garden- 
Before closing this chapter, we desire to add a few 
words on the subject of temperature in relation to 
propagation. Our observation has been that while some 
cuttings will root under almost any treatment, yet we 
should be governed by some law or rule in order that 
when we begin to propagate we can rest as.-<iired that 
success will crown our efforts, providing we do our share 



48 



PROPAGATION. 



of the work. "VVe submit the following rule, the correct- 
ness of which has been demonstrated to us by actual 
experience. 

Cutting of plants can he rooted in the sayne tempera- _ 
lure required to keep the phnt in a healthy growing 
condition. This may appear to be a small matter, but 
in reality it is an important one. One winter, some years 
years ago, a friend of ours put in the cutting bench of 
his greenhouse several hundred each of Coleus and Car- 
nations, in a temperature of about 75 degrees. He suc- 
ceeded in rooting all the Coleus and killing all the 
Carnations ; whereas, if his Carnation cuttings had been 
placed in a temperature of 45 to 50 degrees, they would 
have rooted. This difference in the amount of heat 
would have killed the Coleus. We can only judge of the 
amount of heat by what is required for our plants in 
winter and in summer, we recommend the propagation 
of nothing save tropical plants which will bear an abun- 
dance of heat. 




Fig. 12. — granite castle. 



VENTILATION AND LIGHT. 



49 



CHAPTER VIII. 




VENTILATON AND LIGHT. 

»LANTS breathe. This fact has been ascer- 
tained by the carefully conducted experi- 
ments of very eminent scientific botanists. 
I We do not consider it necessary to adduce argu- 
ments to prove that which is acknowledged by 
all who have studied the subject, to be a fact. 
Plants, like human beings, receive considerable 
nourishment from the contents of the atmosphere, 
for it, like water, contains life in many forms, and is com- 
posed mainly of oxygen, nitrogen and carbonic acid gases. 
We, by the process of respiration, consume oxyen, and 
from the lungs and through seven millions of pores diffused 
over the skin, are incessantly pouring out a deadly poison, 
carbonic acid gas. Vegetation consumes this gas as well as 
nitrogen, and through the pores of the leaves and stems of 
vegetable life is emited oxygen. Hence we see how 
necessary to the health of each other are the components of 
the two kingdoms, viz: the animal and vegetable. To use 
an old expression, " We can kill two birds with one stone " 
by giving the plants we grow in our homes pure air. 
While benefitting our plants we benefit ourselves. If the 
air we breathe is impure, its inhalation will certainly be 
followed by a feeling of lassitude, languor and irritability ; 
the nervous system becomes affected, the intellectual facul- 
ties weakened and if the cause is not removed, disease will 
sooner or later follow. Since plants breathe much after 
the same manner as we do, (though consuming a different 
component of the atmosphere) it certainly follows that we 



50 SUCCESSFUL FLOKICULTURE. 

both require in this respect the same stimulent, pure air. 
As we have arrived at this conclusion, we now come to the 
subject of Ventilation ; and while we endeavor to get pure 
air for the plants, we also want the pure air for the fair 
owner of these plants, that he or she may live long to en- 
joy their rich beauty and delightful fragrance. When the 
breath of the body issues from the lungs, it being heated, is' 
rarified, and consequently is specifically lighter than the 
surrounding atmosphere, hence it immediately ascends, and 
before the next respiration it has given place to a 23urer air. 
This vitiated air that has risen can only ascend to the ceil- 
ing; and there remains only so long as it is of a higher 
temperature than the air nearer the floor. When it has 
gradually given out its excess of heat, it becomes of the same 
density as the rest of the atmosphere, mingles with it, and 
as it falls to our level we are in danger of inhaling it a 
second time, ov perhaps oftener. From this it is evident 
that the aperture through which this impure or vitiated air 
escapes should be near the ceiling of the room, or if for 
plants in a window, it should be near the top, but it must 
be remembered that no air can escape from any room un- 
less an equal quantity enters to supply its place ; hence it is 
necessary to make provision for the admission of pure air. 
A very good mode for the emission of foul air is to make a 
funnel shaped hole in the chimney, and have a zinc funnel 
made to fit it; se;curely fasten the funnel in the hole; 
through this funnel most, if not all, the impure air will 
pass, and will be carried off by the upward current in 
the chimney; to supply the place made vacant by the 
egress of this air, a door may be opened, or if this is not 
practicable, some other mode will suggest itself, but 
recollect that cold dravcjhU are injurious to yourself as 
well as to the more tender plants ; the upper sash of the 
window may be lowered, or if the weather is mild, the 
upper may be lowered and the lower one raised, or one or 



THE WINDOW GARDEN. 51 

both may be taken out. You cannot giv^e plants too mucli 
fresh air, provided the air is not chilling to their nature. 

Light is as needful to the health of plants as air, and its 
absence in sufficient quantity is the cause of a great disap- 
pointment to many amateurs. All plants need light ; some, 
we know, cannot endure the direct rays of our summer sun- 
light; they are the inhabitants of our woody vales and hill- 
sides, where they are protected by the foliage of the lords of 
the forest ; there they grow to perfection ; among these may 
be noted the Ferns and Mosses, some of which, if exposed to 
the fierce rays of old Sol for one half hour, would not recover 
from the effects of the injury for months. There are other 
plants that will delight in the sunshine in the morning, but 
prefer to have some shade in the afternoon. Among these 
may be noted the Golden Tricolor Geraniums ; they need 
some sunlight to bring forth their bright colors, yet if 
exposed too much, the delicate tints which make them so 
lovely, will fade away like the mists in the morning. There 
is still another class that want all the light they can get, 
and if they don't get it, they will soon show their displeas- 
ure by refusing to produce their beautiful flowers, and by 
doing other naughty things. Among these may be men- 
tioned Eoses, Zonale Geraniums, and nearly all other bed- 
ding plants. Where plants are grown so that only one side 
is exposed to the liglit, they should be turned around every 
few days, else they will all grow toward the light and 
become as gardeners say "one sided." Wardian Cases, 
Ferneries, Hanging Baskets, et,c., should also be turned fre- 
quently, or all the beauty will be facing the light, and the 
ocf'U]xints of the room will receive but a little share of it. 




52 SUCCESSFUL 'LORICULTURE. 



CHAPTER IX. 

THE WINDOW GARDEN. 
>ERHAPS there will be no chapter in the 
book that will be more thoroughly read than 
this, and no other will contain any informa- 
that is needed so much as the informati( n 
'that this one should contain. We will endeavir 
make it as concise and complete as our limiud 
space will allow. AVhile the financial condit en 
of the great majority of us will not admit of ciir 
being the happy possessors of conservatories filled with rare 
exotics, we can each have our window garden, from which 
we will derive as much pleasure as those who have been 
more highly favored. It is not necessary that the window 
have a southern or eastern aspect ; certainly this is prefera- 
ble for blooming plants, yet if our window is toward the 
north we can grow our Palms, INIusk, Saxifrage, and many 
others. In this respect then, no person is debarred from 
cultivating window plants ; in fact we can grow plants with 
moderate success in every window in the house. Some of 
our friends have a bay window in which to grow their 
plants. They are a great improvement on the old style. 
We have heard some complain about the trouble of moving 
the plants when they desire to close the shutters. If the 
reader is bothered in this way, let him have a stand made, 
the top of which will just fit in the space in the windoAv; 
this stand should be on castors; it can be pulled back into 
the room until the shutters are closed, when it may or may 
not be pushed back into the window. If the window is 
wholly devoted to floriculture, it can be more easily and 
Buccessfully managed if the window is divided oflT from the 



THE WINDOW GARDEN. 



room by glass doors hung on hinges, that may be opened or 
closed at will ; this will keep dust and noxious gases from 
the plants. And just here we wish to say it is almost im 
possible to grow plants in a room where coal gas is burnt, 
unless precautions are taken to protect the plants from the 
atmosphere while the gas is burning. This is perhaps the 
cause of most failures in the attempt to grow plants in the 
house. If the glass doors we have al- 
ready spoken of cannot be used as we 
have recommended, then before the gas 
is lighted lower the curtains or window 
shades; this will usually prove sufficient. 
We have already given all necessary di- 
rections for the treatment of the plants ; 
this will be found in the other chapters 
under their respective headings. The 
extent of the cultivation of plants for win- 
dow gardening must be governed by the 
resources of the culturist. If space in- 
side and out is limited, and he cannot re- 
move his plants when out of bloom, he 
must be contented with such plants as 
will be ornamental for the longest time. Usually, however; 
there are windows enough to accomodate a large number of 
plants. One or more of these windows occupy the most 
conspicuous jilace or places; in these we certainly want it, 
have our prettiest plants. By exercising our judgment wo 
can have these windows looking admirably all the timee 
true, it will be at the expense of the windows less favored 
by position. Yet the effect will be more pleasing, and no 
doubt more satisfactory, to see one or two windows looking 
grand than to see five or six looking only moderately fair. 
The use of either plantstands illustrated by Fig. 13 or 14 or 
an Aquarium will add greatly to the beauty of a bay win- 
dow. When flowering plants are out of bloom transfer them 




REVOLVING PLANT 

STAND FOR BAY 

WINDOW. 



54 



SUCCESSFUL FLORICULTURE. 



to another pk.oe to recuperate, and supply tlieir places 
with otluT.s just coniing into bloom. This will require some 
forethought to have a continued succession of flowers all 





Fig. 13.— Floveb Stahd. 



THE W'lXDOW GARDEN. 



55 



through the seasons. Gain a knowledge of the time the 
plants should bloom and then make your selections accord- 




FiG. 14.— Floweic Stand. 

ingly. In making these selections bear in mind that a 
variety, especially in colors, is essential to make the effect 
pleasing to the eye. 



56 



SUCCESSFUL FLORICULTURE. 



A ]\ToDEL "Window. ? Many persons who will read this 
may not have the luxury of a bay window, and may know 
by a sad experience how unsuitable are most windows for 
plant growing ; the sills are narrow, (which may be greatly 




Fig. 15. — Window Box. 
improved by the use of the window boxes of which 
we illustrate two very neat and handsome designs Figs. 15, 
16;) and a plant of spreading habits has one side crushed 




"''"™™"llllliillJ,IUiil |lM];ill|li I • 

No. 4 WINDOW BOX. 

Fig. 1G. 



THE WINDOW GARDEN. 



67 



by being pushed against the glass, and, if the weather is 
jold the plant is chilled, if not frozen, by contact with the 
glass. We believe that many 
would have a suitable window 
made if it could be done at a 
slight expense. The one we are 
about to suggest is within the 




reach of all, and we feel satisfied 
that a true lover of flowers will 
never regret having {\,dopted the 
plan. We cannot think how it 
Fig. 17. could be improved upon for the 

purpose it is intended. It will be seen by the engraving 
that the sill of the window is extended in breadth beyond 
the face of the wall of the house by brackets. It can 
be made movable or stationery. We prefer one that is so 
arraiiged that it can be drawn into the house in the evening 
or in cold weather. When drawn in, the sash that covers 
the garden will serve as a common window sash. In ad- 
dition to what is shown in the engraving we recomend a 
glass door after the same style and to answer the same pur- 
pose as that recommended for the bay window, One of 
the great beauties of this window is that its construction is 
simple and the cost is trifling. Any carpenter of ordinary 
ability, by looking at the engraving, (Fig 17,) can see just 
what is wanted, and can make it without any directions 
from the author, who does not pretend to understand the 
art of window building. For the inside a shallow pan 
made of zinc, large enough to cover the bottom of the win- 
dow, should be used to keep the water off the frame work ; 
if this is not done the moisture will cause the wood to ex- 
pand, when it will be difficult to move the window either 
way. This pan need not Ibe more than two or three inches 



58 SUCCESSFUL FLOEICULTUPvE. 

deep ; it can be partially filled with sifted aslies, fine gravel 
or any other material that water will readily pass through ; 
clean brick will do admirably, and on these the plants can 
be placed. The water will remain in the pan, causing a 
moist vapor to arise which will greatly benefit the plants. 
The Avater in the pan should be taken out and the pan 
rinsed at least once a week in summer, and once in two 
weeks in winter, or oftener if the pan becomes filled with 
water. The plants are arranged and watered from the 
room within. On the Vv'hole, we can't help but say we like 
this window in every respect. By having such an one you 
will be enabled to give your plants more sunlight; by clos- 
ing the inner doors you can keep dust and gases from them, 
you can fumigate without difiiculty ; in fact it is one of the 
greatest helps to assist you to victory. 

With the assistance of some brackets we can utilize al- 
most every inch of space in the w^indow which will add 
very materially to the looks of it and enable us to grow so 
many more plants in the given space at a cost of very little 
more time and attention. 

The question may be asked, What plants are best suited 
for window culture? It is rather difficult to answer, 
There are so many " ifs '' about it ; the best answer we can 
give is to refer the reader to the list of plants and their re- 
quirements. You can readily discover those whose wants 
you can supply. They are those for you to procure. 




Fia. 18. — Bracket. 



TRAININir PLANTS. 



59 




CHAPTER X. 

TRAINING PLANTS. 
'T is a rare occurrence to see in our com- 
mercial establishments well grown specimens of 
plants. True it is, that in many we see admir- 
able specimens of Palms, Ferns, Dracrenas, &c., 
but they become specimens without extra trou- 
ble, while the commoner plants are entirely 
ignored. In what establishment will you find 
Fuchsias grown from six to eight feet high and twelve to 
fifteen feet in circumference, or Lantanas grown four feet 
high without a branch, but at the top a globular mass of 
flowers and foliage six feet across ? We are not prepared 
to say why it is so ; our object in writing this is to call our 
reader's attention to the fact that in many instances we do 
not obtain from our plants all the beauty of form and 
elegant appearance that with liberal treatment we could. 
The American traveler in Europe notices in the many 
larger establishments plants trained in almost every con- 
ceivable form that is attractive. We have noticed Hoya 
Carnosa, trained on a balloon-shaped wire frame, five feet 
high and three feet in diameter, literally covered with 
flowers ; Azaleas trained in the form of a quadrangular 
pyramid ; others cone-shaped ; others with a globular head, 
surmounted with another of different form two feet higlier 
than the first. We can readily train many of our common 
house plants in these artistic styles, and while we do not 
say that this plan is an improvement upon nature, we do 
say the effect is highly pleasing. Certainly it takes some 
time to do this, and when in imagery we are forming our 
designs, we must be assured that the branches of our plants 



60 SUCCESSFUL FLORICULTURE. 

will submit to this treatment, and also if its habit of 
growth is suitable for the purpose intended. For instance, 
the growth and habit\bf the'zonale Geranium is scarcely 
susceptible of any modification, except to keep it in a 
spherical shape by pinching out the points of the branches 
that are growing fastest ; while the Fuchsia, being a rapid 
grower and having slender branches, will admit of being 
trained in several distinct forms. This training, howevfer, 
must begin while the plant is small and progress as it 
grows. Any cultivator who has patience to carry on this 
work will be amply repaid by the success that is bound to 
follow, Nor need this phase of the work be confined to 
house plants alone — let us take it outside and trim our 
trees so they will look tasty, and also our Roses. We can 
have pyramids of hardy Roses, and arbors and arches of 
our climbing roses and other hardy vines ; fan-shaped 
Honey -suckles, and other devices almost innumerable. 
Nature does a vast amount for us in presenting to us her 
naturally varied growths, and calls on us to arrange them 
to suit our fancy, and if we arrange them properly and 
keep them in all their varied appearances so that the 
whole will harmonize, we will not regret having given our 
time and means to beautify our part of the world. But to 
return, we intended to speak of this only so far as it related 
to plants. Plants that are to be trained in any shape 
should be grown in pots. Not that this is necessary to 
train them properly, but when in pots they can be pre-, 
served from year to year, and removed from one place to 
another if it is desired. Very many of our people exhibit 
plants of their own growing at our state and county fairs, 
and plants grown in any odd Avay will prove particularly 
attractive at such places, and in not a few instances will 
prove suflSciently interesting to be awarded first premiums. 
In training many plants it will be necessary to have a wire 
or wood frame made, on which to tie the young branches 



TRAINING PLANTS. 61 

until tli'.'j grow stout aud strong aud lose their elasticity, 
A. wire frame is preferable, as it is more durable, and not 
so noticeable, especially if painted green. For some designs, 
or for simply growing the plant into a neat, globular mass, 
long pegs may be used, with a hook at one end, with which 
the branches may be hooked down to bring in shape ; or 
small pegs may be driven into the soil. Take a string and 
tie the branch with a loose knot, and draw the branch 
toward the peg ; keep in position by tying the string to 
the peg. In a day or two, it may be drawn a little closer, 
until it is in the position desired. If the branches of the 
plant are not naturally pliable, but are crisp or brittle, 
allow the plant to become so dry that the foliage begins to 
wilt, when the branches will be found to be sufficiently 
elastic to yield at least a little, and by pursuing the same 
mode a number of times, success will be achieved. AVe 
do not greatly like the above process, and do not recom- 
mend its practice on any but soft wooded plants, as in 
some cases the wilting might prove fatal to hard wooded 
plants, yet the ultimate beauty of perhaps an unsightly 
plant would warrant our pursuing it. 

We do not think it wise to devote any more space to this 
subject, we only desire to bring it before you for your con- 
sideration, believing that it may perhaps open a new field 
to most of our readers, that will prove, if properly utilized, 
a source from which we may derive much pleasure. 





32 SUCCESSFUL FLORICULTURE. 



CHAPTER XL 

BULBS. 

[E do not know how we would get along with- 
out our flowering bulbs. Some of the most 
beautiful flowers are borne by our bulbs and 
bulbous plants. We can scarcely conceive of 
anything more magnificent than the golden- 
rayed Japanese Lily, (Auratum) yet we 
should not mention this one alone, for per- 
haps ere this book is distributed, another far 
more beautiful may be introduced such has been the history 
of the past ; from one variety hundreds, yes thousands of 
varieties have been produced, until the latest productions 
would hardly be recognized as belonging to the same 
family. The culture of bulbs is still in its fancy; we 
believe the time will soon come when in this country 
thousands of acres will be devoted to the culture of bulbs, 
and that mammoth establishments will devote their atten- 
tion wholly to this branch of business. Why should it 
not be so? While yet the earth is clad in her snowy robes 
the little snowdrop awakens from its sleep, pushing through 
the frozen soil, and greets us with its welcome announce- 
ment that spring is coming ; from this time all through the 
spring, summer, and until "chill November's surly blast 
makes fields and forests bare," when the autumn Crocus, 
unmindful of the storm, produces its white or purple flow- 
ers, the last tribute of the season, there is no time that our 
eyes may may not be gladdened by these brilliant flowers, 
and our senses regaled by their delightful perflime. They 
come to us first and remain with us until the end — all this 
in the garden, year after year with very little trouble. 



BULBS. C 3 

Dear reader this is a pleasant beautiful world ; you may en- 
joy it if you will. 

Bulbs play an important part in window gardeninfj ; their 
simple culture commends them to all. They bear the dry 
atmosphere with impunity, and the gases that woukl kill 
many plants, fall harmlessly upon them. They suifer but 
little from the attacks of insects, which is a great consider- 
ation. We can have flowers from these in the house all 
the year around. We begin with Hyacinths, in January, 
which are followed in quick succession by Snowdrops, Cro- 
cus, Iris, Anemones, Tulips, Narcissus, Lily of the Valley, 
Lilies, Gladiolus, Tigridias, Tuberoses Colchicum, until 
the Roman Hyacinths and Karcissus say Merry Christmas 
and a Happy Kew Year. We propose, for our own bene- 
fit, to divide the principal bulbs in four classes, viz : 

1st. Tender Annual Bulbs. Those that from a dor- 
mant state grow, bloom and mature their bulbs in one sea- 
son, such as Gladiolus and Tigridias. They will not bear 
much frost, some of them none at all. Some that we 
designate as tender will, no doubt, prove entirely hardy in 
the Southern states ; most of them are best suited for bed- 
ding purposes, 

2d. Hardy Annual Bulbs are those that from a dor- 
mant condition, grow, bloom, and mature their bulbs in one 
year, and are not injured by our cold winters, such as 
Hyacinths, Crocus, Tulips, etc. 

3d. Tender Perennial Bulbs are those that do not 
need a season of rest, hence are grown all the time. 

4th. Greenhouse Bulbs. For description see culture 
of greenhouse bulbs. 

Culture of Tender Annual Bulbs. All of these 
are natives of countries where there is little, if any frost. 
They should never be planted in the garden until the earth 
has been warmed by the increasing rays of the sun ; we can- 
not give any specified time that would be advantageous. 



64 SUCCESSFUL FLORICULTURE. 

We, in this latitude, plant them about June 1st; no doubt 
our Southern friends have them in bloom by that time if 
not earlier ; however, do not plant until danger from frost 
is past. They are all easily groAvn, luxuriating in a sandy 
soil, well enriched with good stable manure, which should" 
be dug into the soil the previous autumn. Plant the bulbs 
about four inches deep, and from nine to twelve inches 
apart in the rows; all the care they will require during the 
summer will be to keep them clear of weeds, and if the 
ground should bake or become hard, loosen it with the hoe 
or fork. Such as the Gladiolus should be tied to neat 
stakes to keep them from breaking, as well as to show the 
flowers to better advantage. In the autumn, after the first 
frost has killed the foliage, the bulbs should be dug up, 
dried in the sun and put in a dry, warm place, there to 
reman until time for planting in the spring. The degree of 
dryness can only be learned by experience, all we can say 
is if the bulbs become soft they are too dry, if they begin 
to grow they are too warm and perhaps too moist ; in eith- 
er case remove to a cooler place and put them in dry sand 
or charcoal. Remember that Tuberoses that have bloomed 
once will not bloom again. 

Hardy Annual Bulbs. Many of the varieties of this 
class are now popularly called Holland Bulbs because 
they are grown more largely there than in any other country, 
hundreds of acres being devoted to their culture. They 
usually arrive in this country about the first of September. 
They should be planted early enough in the season so that 
they will begin to grow and make a strong start at the roots 
before cold weather sets in. If this advantage is given 
them the flowers will be much handsomer. If the soil is 
not sandy Ave generally put in a handful of sand in the hole 
and embed the bulb in the sand; this will act in the capac- 
ity of drainage and save the bulb from rot. Manures for 
hardy bulbs must be well rotted ; cow dung is preferred ; it 



BULBS. 65 

should bo well mixed with the soil. Plant Hyacinth and 
Lily bulbs four inches ileep, Tulips and Crocus three inches- 
After we are satisfif^d tiiat cold weather has set in for the 
season, the bulb bed should be covered with three inches of 
leaves, straw, or litter, which must be removed in early 
Spring. 

Pot Culture of Tender Bulbs. Because we have no 
room in the garden, or perhaps no garden in which to grow 
these bulbs, still we need not be deprived of them. They 
are admirable pot plants. Three or four Gladiolus, Tigri- 
dias, or Zephranthes may be planted in an eight inch pot, 
and if carefully attended to will bloom beautifully and 
bountifully. The Tuberose, Caladiums, and larger grow- 
ing Amaryllis should be potted single, that is, one bulb in 
the pot. They may be put in four inch pots at first, and 
afterward shifted into larger pots. The treatment is simple ; 
rich, sandy soil, good drainage plenty of moisture, 
syringe frequently. This treatment can be pursued when 
desired to start or force the bulbs early in the season, be- 
fore it would be safe to plant in the garden. By this mode 
they will bloom much earlier in the season. This is desire- 
able, especially with the Tuberose, as it sometim?'s is killed 
by frost before the flowers are developed. We should say 
if you wish to force these bulbs, plenty of heat is neces- 
sary. 

Pot Culture of Hardy Annual Bulbs. This class 
require a widely different treatment. If we would be suc- 
cessful with them we must encourage a strong growth at 
the roots before the tops push forth. We will give the cul- 
ture of the Hyacinth, as it is so well known, and the same 
treatment is equally applicable for Tulips, Crocus, Narcissus, 
and all other such bulbs. Prepare a soil composed of 
about one-fourth well rotted manure, three-fourths of rot- 
ted sandy sod or turf; for a medium sized Hyacinth bulb 
use a pot five inches in height and the same in diameter. 



66 



SUCCESSFUL PLORIOULTURB. 



Fill this loosely with tlie prepared soil, press the bulb down 
in the soil until tlie top of the bulb is about a half inch 
below the level of the top of the pot, press down the soil 
and fill in Avith more, leaving space at the surface for 
watering. A large pot may be used, say an eight inch pot, 
in this three bulbs can be put, and will produce a pretty 
effect Avhen in bloom. This pot would be large enough in 
which to grow seven Tulips or ten Crocus. (Fig 19.) These 




Fig. 19. 
bulbs may be grown in glasses or in boxes, (Fig. 20), on 
tables in damp moss. A great many pretty designs will 
suggest themselves to the enthusiast. No matter in what 




Fig. 20. 
they are to be grown the following is the proper treatment. 
After the bulbs have been potted give them one good 
watering and put them in some cool, dark place, this to en- 
courage growth at the roots. In from three to four weeks 
the pots will be pretty well filled with roots, then they are 
in condition to make and support a strong, healthy growth 
at the tops, and should be placed where they will have 



BULBS. 



67 



plenty of light and moderately warm. In a few more 
weeks we will see them in all their glory. If at this time 
the Temperature can be somewhat reduced the period of 
blooming will be proportionately lengthened. These bulbs 
will rarely bloom well the second year, but if they are 
planted out in spring they may produce very fine flowers 
the second season, after. If they are grown in water, a few 
drops of ammonia added to the water every time it is 
changed, will be beneficial to them. 

Culture of Tender Perennial Bulbs. These are 
usually grown in pots. They luxuriate in a rich, sandy 
soil, like plenty of moisture during the growing season, a 
part of Avhich should be withheld after their season of flow- 
ering, when they become semi-dormant, though retaining 
their foliage. 

Greenhouse Bulbs. This is a class that are very 
handsome ; in it. we include the Gloxinia and Cyclamen. 
We give them this name because they are not suitable for 
bedding purposes. They arc all admirable and highly 
esteemed for pot culture in the house, window garden or 
conservatory. They require, while growing, the general 
treatment given for tender annual bulbs in pots. 




68 



SUCCESSFUL FLORICULTURE. 



CHAPTER XI. 

HANGING BASKETS. 
-'ROWIXG plants in suspended baskets is 
one of the most popular modes. We are • 
pleased to note the rapidly growing sentiment 
in favor of this; although all plants are njot 
suitable for this, yet it requires something of 
this kind to fully present the beautiful habits 
of quite a large number of our familiar friends. 
The style or shape of a basket will be to a 
great extent in unison with the ideas of the owner; so also 





Fig, 21. — Hakgino Basket. 



HAXGIKG "BASKETS. 



69 



will be the material of which it is made, provided the 
person makes or has them made ; however at most of the 
floral stores can be bought baskets made of wood, wire or 
earthenware, (Fig 21). The Wood or Rustic Basket is made 
of an oval bowl covered with knotted laurel roots, etc., and 
suspended usually with grape vine or cane handles ; they 
will last for three or perhaps four years. The wire basket 
is preferable to the rustic, because it is cheaper, and, as 
when the plants are growing luxuriantly they almost com- 
pletely hide the basket, it will look fully as well ; and again, 
it is almost impossible to give too much water, as the drain- 
age IS so complete. The earthenware baskets have at least 
one advantage; they will not wear out; consequently, if not 
broken by accident or carelessness, they will last for ages. 
There is such a great demand for this kind of baskets, that 
the manufacturers rival each other in the production of 
new designs, and in the decoration of them. One of the 
fav.orite designs, is a simile of a log painted to imitate 




Fig. 22. — Log Hanging Basket. 
nature ; it is beautiful and attractive, yet for rare and valu- 
able plants we do not recommend it, as the paint fills up 
the pores, thereby depriving the plants of the air necessary 
to their health ; however, it is better that the paint is on the 
outside only, and the plants will do comparatively well for 
a season, and as the baskets should be over hauled and 
remodeled twice a year, viz : spring and fall, they can be 
used, new plants being used for filling; the old plants being 
re-potted and allowed to recuperate. As we have said, the 



70 SUCCESSFUL FLORICULTURE. 

above styles can be bought. Many of our culturists reside 
in rural districts ; they have ample opportunities for dis- 
playing taste and ingenuity in arranging other styles; for 
instance, one like a log cabin, an octagonal one ; in fact, a 
great nuiny beautiful designs will be presnted to the mind, 
all of which can be readily made ; one of our lady friends 
made a neat one of corn-cobs, though it was not very dura- 
ble. If the wire or log cabin style is used, the interstices 
must be filled to prevent the soil from falling out. For 
this purpose use sheet moss ; it will be found in the woods 
on trees that have fallen and are decaying. These styles 
will drain very rapidly, and the culturist must take care 
that the plants in them do not suffer from lack of moisture. 
If, on the other hand, the bowl of the basket is not porous, 
a liberal supply of drainage must be used. It is not an un- 
common thing to see some plants in a basket growing 
luxuriantly and others in the same basket in a dying con- 
dition, and the ajDpearance of the whole not very credita- 
ble to the owner. We are not surprised at this. We have 
always contended that it requires knowledge, taste and 
judgment to fill a basket so that it will look well and do 
well, but very frequently none of these are used. We see 
all in one basket ; plants that require a great amount of 
moisture and those that want very little; plants that re- 
quire a hot house temperature with those that frost will 
hardly kill ; some that require sun with those that need 
shade; those whose seasons of growth is nearly passed,, with 
those that are just springing into a sturdy growth; etc. We 
enumerate these differences so that you may be on your 
guard when about to fill your basket. You want the 
basket to look well, that you may enjoy it, and with your 
friends admire it. If it must be so, it devolves upon you to 
start right ; study well the nature of the plants ; associate 
together those whose requirements are similar ; use taste in 
their arrangement and judgment in their location and in 



HANGING BASKETS. 



71 



their attention. None of the strong and rapidly growing 
plants are suitable for a basket ; as the quantity of soil is 
limited, their roots would soon "crowd out" the roots of the 
weaker plants ; hence we use the more delicate and compar- 
atively slow growing plants for this purpose. We have 
usually found it necessary to use one plant of upright habit 
for the centre of the basket ; this is surrounded with plants 
of a drooping and half drooping habit ; they can be ar- 
ranged to suit the taste of the owner. ^A number of bas- 
kets may be filled with different plants, all the plants in 
each basket to require the same treatment, ^and placed in 
appropriate situations, so that all the available places may 
be made attractive by their presence. Do not overlook the 
fact that some of our most beautiful and best adapted 
plants for this purpose are those with ornamental foliage, 
the flowers of which are in many instances small, or per- 
haps we might say, they are not attractive. Nothing is 
more graceful or more attractive for the centre of a basket 
than a seedling plant of C'entaurea Gymnocarpa, yet the 
flowers greatly resemble those of the Scotch Thistle. 




Fig: 23. 



72 



BtJOCESSFUL FLORICULTURE. 



CHAPTER XII. 
AQUARIUMS AND FERNERIES. 

HE Aquarium is one of the most elegant 
and instructive of parlor ornaments. In 
^^ this Ave can haVe specimens of the animal, 
vegetable and the mineral kingdoms as interest, 
ing as Barnum's Happy Family. The form of 
the tank or vases is immaterial, so no great ex- 
pense need necessarily be incurred in that direc- 
tion. The familiar fish globe is frequently used. To the 
party to whom expense is no object, the most attractive and 
useful vessels are those of rectangular form, as a plainer 
view of the contents can be obtained through a plain than 

No. 6 AQUARIUM. 





Fia. 24. 



AQUARIUMS AND FERFERIES. 



73 



through a curved glass. The frame work of the tank may 
be cast u-on or of wood if well seasoned ; the sides and ends 
filled with glass. Most of our floral stores keep on hand a 
variety of Aquariums, ranging in price from two dollars to 
fifty dollars. No doubt the florist witli whom you deal can 
supply you or refer you to some dealer in Aqaaria and 
Ornaments for the same. 




Fig. 25. — aquari m and stanu. 



74 SUCCESSFUL FLORICULTURE. 

Furnishing the Aquarium. Having selected your 
vessel the next thing in order is to prepare it for the re- 
ception of its intended occupants. In this matter we can 
only give the reader some "hints," in a general way leaving 
it to the fancy of the individual to decide what is the most 
suitable and ornamental for the tank that is to be furnished. 
It Avill require considerable artistic ability to furnish an 
Aquarium in such a way as to be pleasing and satisfactory. 
Let us remember that the highest degree of art is but an 
imitation of nature, and the more natural an object is, the 
more pleasing; so with our artistic skill, let us see how 
nearly we can imitate nature in furnishing our Aquarium. 
EoCKWORK will be found indispensable ; in small Aquariums 




Fig. 26. — hold thk fort castle. 



r, few rugged stones of different sizes, shapes, etc., of suffici- 
ent variety to form a contrast, yet all to harmonize, is per- 
haps all that can be used to advantage. In larger tanks a 
very pretty effect may be produced by building the rock- 
work above the surface of the water leaving plenty of cavi- 
ties in which to grow Aquatic plants. Coarse sand or 
sifted pebbles may be used to cover the bottom of the 
Aquarium, they should be thoroughly cleansed in order to 
free them from any minerals or other substances that might 
prove injurious. If there is no rockwork above the surface? 
a floating island may be introduced, a piece of cork may be 



AQUARIUMS AND FERNERIES. 75 

carved to suit the fancy, after which it should be burned 
all over the surface to give it a unique appearance. If the 
size of the "island" will admit of it, holes may be made 
through it, and some of the plants can be trained up 
through these holes ; the plants will, to the casual observer, 
appear to be growing on the island ; this will keep the 
island in its proper position and not allow it to come 
f.shore ; or the surface of the island may be hollowed out 
in places and filled with soil. Ferns and other small plants 
will grow admirably thereon ; the soil may be raised to 
represent small hillocks. After what we have said about 




Fig. 27.— Venus m a Shell. 

imitating nature, we hardly think it necessary to say that 
coral and marine shells should not be introduced into a fresh 
water aquarium ; and here permit us to say that salt water 
fish or plants will not flourish in fresh water, nor will the 
inhabitants of fresh water live in salt water. The water 
for use in an aquarium should be clear as crystal, and 



76 



SUCCESSFUL FLORICULTURE. 



great care must be exercised that it b.e free from saline 
matter, or the result may be very serious. It should be 
obtained from a river or brook ; if, however, there is no 
such stream in the nei^borhood. spring or rain water- 
must be used. The latter is decidedly preferable, but 
before it is used it should be filtered to render it perfectly 
clear. If spring water must be used, it should bj allowed 
to stand in the open air in a tub or some other such vessel 
for a few days in order to be softened by the actiuu of the 
elements. 




Fig. 28. — Table Aquaeixim. 
When an aquarium is provided with plants and animals, 
in proper proportion, changing the water will be unnec- 
essary. - If there be no plants, or not enough to supply 
sufficient oxygen, the water must be changed frequently, 
perhaps as often as once every day. The plants will cou- 



AQUARIUMS AND FERNERIES. 77 

sume the carbonic acid gas given off by the animals, and 
for this will return to the water in which they live, the 
oxygen necessary for the maintenance of animal life. It 
is frequently necessary to aerate the water ; this should be 
done whenever the fishes come to the surface for the pur- 
pose of gulping air. It can be done by supplying a por- 
tion of fresh water, or by introducing oxygen (air) by an 
artificial process. The simplest way to do this is to take 
out portions of water and then pouring them in again from 
a small height, say from two to three feet. When a foun- 
tain can be introduced, no other mode of aeration will be 
needed. The temperature of the water should not be more 
than seventy nor less than fifty degrees ; the mean tem- 
perature, sixty degrees, will prove the most suitable. 

Plants and Planting. By reference to the latter 
part of this book you will discover those plants which 
require the most water. From these select those which, 
Avhen grouped in the limited space of an aquarium will 
present the most picturesque appearance, for upon them 
in a great measure will the beauty and attractiveness of 
the whole depend. The larger plants may be groAvn in pots, 
the smaller ones will look handsome springing from the 
crevices of the rockwork. Around the large pots may be 
placed mounds of stones to hide the pots from view. A 
sufficient variety of plants may be obtained to make the 
aquarium fascinating with the additional charm of animal 
life. 

The Animals, The great mistake of the amateur, and 
one which is sure to prove fatal to a certain extent, is 
crowding. Two fish, three snails and two plants are suffi- 
cient for each gallon of water, this is the proper proportion 
as far as we are able to determine. And now Ave must 
leave the selection to you, only saying that you must n-ot 
overlook the Mollusca or snails, (Planorbis Corneas is pre- 
ferred) for it is they who consume the refuse matter, hence 



78 SUCCESSFUL FLORICULTURE. 

keep tlie water pure. For tlie balance, gold and silver fish, 
minnows, newts, tadpoles and frogs. The variety and num- 
ber will depend on the capacity of the tank. 

" The fish must be fed about twice a week, except in very 
cold weather, when they seldom touch any food. The best 
food for gold fish, or any other, is " Prepared Fish Food," 
because it will not sour the water. Turtles, eels, lizards, 
codfish, etc., must be fed either flies, worms or raw meat 
cut very fine or beaten tender, and hung to a string so the 
fish can reach it. Gold and silver fish may be fed in like 
manner, but care must be taken to remove food not eaten, 
likewise decaying plants. 

Never allow the full glare of the sun during a hot day 
to rest for hours on the aquarium ; protect it with some- 
thing that will admit light without heat. 

The water should not be allowed to become lukewarm ; 
an even temperature must he maintained. 

Dust is another evil to be guarded against. A plate of 
glass as a lid to the aquarium, raised about one inch above 
the upper edge, so as to allow a passage of air, is the 
best protection. If no glass is used, an occasional stirring 
of the water will prevent the accumulation of dust on the 
surface. 

Management. Sediment can be taken out by means 
of a glass tube. Place the finger on the upper end, and 
then dip the tube in the w^ater over the object to be taken 
out ; remove the finger for a moment, and the water will 
rush up the tube, sucking with it the object sought ; place 
the finger again on the upper end of the tube, and it can 
be taken out and emptied. 

For filling and emptying the aquarium, a syphon (a 
small rubber pipe) may be used. It is done by placing 
the end of the pipe in your mouth and drawing your 
breath strongly; the water under this suction forces the 
air out, and causes it to flow out freely — always supposing 



AQUARIUMS AND FERNERIES. 79 

that, in emptying, the end of the pip^ in the pail is lower 
than the aquarium, ancLin filling vice versa. 

If the green slime (confervas), a low form of vegetation, 
appears, do not get alarmed, for it will benefit the fishes 
and prove a good substitute for Aquaria plants. The glass 
can be kept free from this substance by occasionally scrub- 
bing it with a tooth-brush or a sponge tied to a stick. This 
operation wiir make the water cloudy for a little while, 
but it will do no harm. 

The rules for successful management can be expressed in 
a few words : even temperature, cleanliness, regular feed- 
ing, plant life and no overcrowding." 

Ferneries. Although ferns do no not produce flowers, 
yet it seems that in the heart of every lover of nature 
there is a spot occupied by love of Ferns. We cannot but 
admire them, the delicate maiden hair varieties as well as 
those of more robust growth that produce their grand 
fronds from eight to twenty feet in length. Perhaps none, 
or, at most, but very few of our readers will have a suitable 
place in which to grow these large-growing species, hence 
we will pass these, simply saying that all ferns require 
about the same treatment. They will vary some in regard 
to the heat required, but they all require moisture and 
shade. The chief trouble in growing them in the house is 
the dry atmosphere. This can be overcome by growing 
them in a glass case. This idea Avas first advanced by 
W. B. Ward, who invented what is now known as the 
Wardian Case. It is made pretty much in the same man- 
ner as an aquarium ; in fact, if a glass roof be added to 
a rectangular aquarium it makes a model fernery. The 
roof should be made in two pieces so that it may be slightly 
opened to admit fresh air as well as allow the vitiated air 
to pass away. This circulation of air is necessary if after 
watering we discover that there is too much moisture in 
the case. This will be indicated by the presence of mould 



80 SUCCESSFUL FLORICULTURE. 

or decay on the plants. Another style is to have the base 




Fig. 29.— WAiiDiAN Case. 

made of terra cotta, planting the ferns in this and covering 
with a glass globe. An improvement has 
been made in this style ; the globes used 
are chiefly from France, and cost from 
two to five dollars each. They have been 
liable to break at any time, from the fact 
that the heat inside expanded the glass ; 
the colder atmosphere outside would not 
allow this expansion ; the result was the 
globe broke. This difficulty has been 
obviated by having a'ventilator (Fig 30.) 
Fig 30. put in the top of the globe ; this prevents 

breakage of the glass from atmospheric variatiops, and 




AQUARIUMS AND FERNERIES. 



81 



also allows a current of air to pass through the fernery 
at all times. 

It must not be supposed that Ferns are the only plants 
that will grow in a wardian case or fernery. All 
plants that flourish in a moist, shady place will feel 
perfectly at home in a fernery. This class of plants is 
so extensive and so varied that we can have no diffi- 
culty to fill several cases at any time, and not have 
two plants alike. Plants in these cases do not require 
as much attention as those that are grown in the open 
air. If the circulation of air is very limited, they may 
not need watei'ing more than three or four times in a 
year. They will not be ruined by dust, and but few 
insects will get at them — so you see this mode of plant 
culture should be extremely popuali*. 




T'lG- 31. — Arch. 



82 



SUCCESSFUL FLORICULTURE. 



CHAPTER XIII. 





PLANTS BY MAIL AND EXPRESS. 

ENDING plants by express was, in days 
iirTU S^^^ ^J} considered a great advance, and 
I p! * it certainly Avas as it opened an avenue to 
I those who, by reason of their location, could 
K not obtain plants in the neighborhood of their 
residences. The mode of packing plants was 
soon mastered by the florists, and annually tons 
of plants Avere safely delivered by the various 
express companies. The greatest difficulty in the past has 
been the "charges." Very often on long distances they 
have amounted to more than the first cost of the plants. 
We are pleased to say, however, that now (Dec.,1879,) the 
charges are very materially reduced, and that a great deal 
of the red tape which hitherto has been in vogue is entirely 
abolished, and instead of each company making its charge, 
that all goods j)assing over the routes of the principal ex- 
press companies are now carried to their destination under 
one charge. This is S3 advantageous that now if the dis- 
tance be not more than 600 to 800 miles, and the package 
weighs more than five pounds, it is fully as cheap to have 
them sent by express. All this was well enough for those 
who lived near where the express companies have 
their offices, but there are a great many people who do not 
live within a day's journey of such an office; they love 
flowers just as dearly as those who have a florist's establish- 
ment in their immediate vicinity. Happily for them. 
Uncle Sam said he would carry their plants in the mail 
bags. We do not know who was the first to send plants by 



PLANTS BY MAIL AND EXPRESS. 83 

mail; if we knew, we Avould advocate the erection of a 
monument to his memory, for by this mode of transporta- 
tion every one can have their flowers delivered in their 
village or hamlet at the rate of one cent per ounce. This 
mode of mailing plants is very popular, and if only a few 
plants are wanted, and the distance is long, it is decidedly 
preferable to expressing them. During the last six years 
all over our couutry business has been, to say the 
least, dull, and in many of tlie homes in our land luxuries 
have been below par. No one doubts but that flowers are 
to a certain extent luxuries, and as they could neither be 
eaten or Avorn, they, among the first, Avere discarded ; hence 
the flewer trade was dull. Florists who had all their 
capital invested could no# afibrd to sit down and wait for 
good times; they must effect sales in some way, and the 
only way to do this Avas to loAver their prices, and the 
lowest priced man got the order. The result has been that 
plants are now deli\"ered at your door at less than one-third 
the price they were in the spring of ]873. Even now at 
these prices some floiists are making money. But Avhile Ave 
remember that the prices are so Ioav, we naust also remem- 
ber tliat in the mailing trade the plants are smaller. It is 
unreasonable to expect a large plant for a small price, or in 
other words, you need not expect to receiA^e a plant Aveigh- 
ing a half pound by mail for ten cejots ; the cost of packing 
and postage would cost all you gave for it. Florists who 
make a business of sending plants by mail prepare their 
stock for this purpose. If the florist understands his busi- 
ness he Avill ha\^e small, stocky, Avell-rooted, healthy plants 
groAvn in as cool a temperature as the nature of the plants 
will admit of At the prices quoted in their respective cata- 
lognes, they can only afford to send small plants, henae 
when a plant becomes too large to send by mail, that ie, 
when it weighs to much for the price, it is groAvn on either 
for stock or for retailing at homo. The florist Avith whom 



84 SUCCESSFUL FLORICULTURE. 

you deal doubtless has some of these plants. If you want 
larger plants than are usually sent by mail you can get 
them by adding one-half or doubling the catalogue price, 
which has been placed low in order to secure your patron- 
age. We don't want a false impression to go forth from 
these remarks, that the higher the price the larger "the 
plant. We know that some florists charge two or three 
times as much for the same sized plants as others do, the 
plants being very similar. 

Sending plants by mail is always attended with some risk. 
No matter how well they may be packed, the box may be 
accidentally broken or the package bursted, and the plants 
will be damaged if not wholly destroyed. Sometimes the 
packages are allowed to remain in the Post-ofiice for several 
days and nights before they are called for by the party to 
whom they are addressed; if the weather is very cold the 
plants may get frozen while awaiting delivery at the Post- 
office, hence you see the necessity of getting the plants as 
soon as they are delivered at your Post-office. The loss 
occurring in these ways is comparatively small, and most 
florists bear this loss by guaranteeing the safe arrival of 
plants in good condition ; however, this guarantee does not 
prohibit these losses from occurring, so you are liable to 
receive plants in a damaged condition at any time, though 
they be fine plants, well packed. If you should get plants 
in a damaged state, don't get angry and call the unsuspecting 
florist a swindler, and other pet names, but consider the 
matter calmly ; tell him of your misfortune. Give him the 
names of the plants that are injured beyond recovery and 
ask him to replace them ; if he don't answer your letter, 
write again, and if he does not replace the plants, don't 
deal with him any more. 



IN THE GARDEN. ^ 85 




CHAPTER XIV. 

IN THE GARDEN. 

F we were looking for a site on which to 
locate an extensive Flower Garden, we would 
he very particular about the aspect and soil ; but 
as this work is intended only for4he amateur 
who loves Flora's Children and is anxious to 
raise only a few, we do not think it necessary to 
dilate on that part of the subject, because if the 
soil is not just suitable, we can make it so, and if 
the aspect is not the most desirable for some kinds of 
plants, it will do first rate for others; in fact there is no 
part of the globe that is inhabited by man or beast, in 
which the vegetable kingdom is not fully represented. In 
the matter of soils, approximate the following: A subsoil 
of gravel or sand is the most de^iirable, as this will allow 
all surplus water to pass away rapidly. If the subsoil is of 
a clayey nature, it should be drained ; however, for a few 
plants, not many persons would be willing to go to the 
trouble and expense of thoroughly draining a small patch 
of ground according to the established laws on the subject. 
Sometimes when we have been making flower beds, where 
there was a clay subsoil, we have excavated it to a depth of 
three feet from the surface, and filled the hole two-thirds 
full with gravel, then completed the filling with a soil 
which contained sufficient sand and fibrous matter to allow 
the surplus water to pass through to the gravel underneath- 
This soil had been enriched with half rotted stable manure 
and should be so enriched each succeeding fall or spring- 
Draining on a more extensive scale has been and is still 



86 SUCCESSFUL FLORICULTURE. 

occasionally discussed in all the leading agricultural papers ; 
we do not think a repetition is necessary, hence we omit it. 
The soil we have described as being used for the surface 
of the flower beds is suitable for growing nearly all kinds 
of plants, and is what we would prefer as a basis to begin 
with. If for some particular variety Ave needed a little 
more sand, clay or manure, this soil could be prepared to 
suit them by giving the soil a top dressing of clay or ma- 
nure, as necessity demanded, and thoroughly incorporating 
it into the soil by spading or plowing ; or if there should 
be only a few plants, this ingredient may be mixed in the 
soil in the immediate vicinity of the plants, when they are 
being planted out, except when manure is wanted. If it is 
to be used in this way it must be thoroughly rotted, or it 
may prove moi'e injurious than beneficial. In regard to 
the aspect, this, of course, we cannot change ; but we can 
select plants to suit it, no matter whether it be Northern 
or Southern, Eastern or Western. For a Northern or East- 
ern aspect, select plants that cannot bear the fierce after- 
noon rays of our midsummer sun. For instance, our Fuch- 
sias and Begonias are admirable bedding plants, if they are 
planted in such a position that sun does not shine on them 
later than from ten to eleven o'clock in the morning. In 
our latitude, in such a position the Golden Tricolor Gera- 
niums would have sufiicicnt sunlight to bring out their del- 
icate tints and not sufiicient to cause the tints to become 
dull looking or faded. Many other plants, in fact all that 
require partial shade, should be kept in summer in such a 
position. 3 Many of these would flourish under the shade of 
our forest and fruit trees, if not too densely shaded. For a 
Southern or Western exposure, we can use our Roses, Ge- 
raniums, Coleus and all other plants upon which the sun's 
most intense rays fall with impunity, indeed these plants 
seem to require all the sun-light and sun-heat they can get 
to fully develop the beauty of their flowers or foliage. 



IN THE GARDEN. 87 

Designs. Since we believe that all parts of the garden 
can be utilized, it becomes necessary to adopt a plan or de- 
sign by which we can divide it into flower beds or grassy 
plots in such a manner that when done the whole will har- 
monize and look pretty before the flower beds are planted, 
because if they don't harmonize before the beds are planted, 
they rarely will after. Now we might give a dozen or more 
full page engravings to give you an idea of what we think 
pretty, but there are such a variety of shapes and sizes of 
gardens, and such a great difference in our ideas of taste, 
that we think as perhaps these engravings would only be 
pretty to look at, and would not suit more" than one in a 
thousand, they had better be omitted, more so because we 
have another idea that is suited to the wants of all. .. Take 
a piece of paper and sketch the outlines of the plot you pro- 
pose to use as a flower, garden. It is not absolutely neces- 
sary that this be accurate ; certainly it would be better, we 
suggest, that this be sketched correctly and proportionately. 
Next mark oft' the walks in use and new ones you propose 
to make. The remainder, will be what you will have for 
grass and flowers. The next operation will be to lay out 
the flower beds. The prevailing shapes for these are the 
Circle, Oval, Star, Heart, Crescent, Triangle, Shield, etc., 
while on either side of the walks the whole distance may 
be a long bed from three to four feet wide. From these or 
other shapes select such as your taste may prefer, and mark 
or sketch them on the paper, being careful that the sizes of 
the beds are proportionate, and that the designs harmonize. 
If when one design for the whole plot is completed, examine 
it carefully and critically, to see that you are perfectly sat- 
isfied with it ; if not, then try again ; and just at this time 
we recommend a great deal of patience, because this will be 
more easily remedied while it is on paper than it would be 
after the design is executed in the garden. After trying 
until you have succeeded in producing a design that you 



00 SUCCESSFUL FLORICULTURE. 

fully approve of, the next move will be to lay out the gar- 
den in reality. This can now be more readily and more 
easily done, as we now have to guide us, a design that just 
suits your taste and your garden to a T, 

Laying out the Garden. AVith the design, spade and 
shovel, rake, stakes, tape line, and a rope or clothes line, 
we enter the garden. If it has not been graded or leveled 
to suit the taste of the owner, this will be the first opera- 
tion ; we all know how to do this, so we only desire to whis. 
per in your ear that the surface should be a gentle slope 
from the house ; this will carry away the water, and the 
scene will look prettier both from the house and from the 
avenue. The supposition now is that it is graded and that 
there is about twelve inches of what we might call a fair 
garden soil covering the whole. We now, according to the 
designs we have adopted, proceed to lay out the walks or 
roads. If these are to be straight, all that will be ueceFsary 
will be to get our distances from the designs and put iii 
stakes at either end ; we can now stretch our line from, 
these stakes and drive in a stake at every eight or ten feet 
during the whole length of the walk ; but if these walks 
are to be bending or serpentine in shape, it will be more 
difficult to lay them out correctly. It requires considera- 
ble skill and some practice to mark out irregularly shaped 
walks or flower beds without the aid of something to clear- 
1/ show just where the outline should be. We have found 
nothing more advisable to recommend to our friends than a 
heavy rope or clothes-line ; this is always on hand, and an- 
swers the purpose ; lay this on the ground and bend or coil 
in any direction until the desired shape is obtained. By 
t.iis rope the eye is enabled to perceive the whole form of 
the walk or flower bed at once, and readily detect any 
fault and rectify it at once. When other than straight 
lines are desired, we consider the use of the rope superior to 
the old mode of using stakes; its use is also advantageous 



IN THE GARDEN. S9 

in connection with stakes in laying out beds in the shape 
of stars, and all others that are more or less pointed, a stake 
being used at each point to keep the rope in position. When 
the rope shows the walk to be the right shape, it should be 
marked off by making with the spade a row or gutter two 
inches deep close beside the rope. All the proposed walks 
having been mapped out in this way, the soil should be re- 
moved from the space to be used for walks, to the depth of 
eight to ten inches. This soil may be used for filling up the 
low places in other parts of the garden. The remainder of 
the garden should all be dug over ; if the soil is poor it 
should be enriched with manure prior to digg-ing; now 
mark off by the aid of ropes and stakes one of the accepted 
designs for flower beds. When correct the outlines should 
be made permanent by sodding ; obtain sufficient sods or 
green turf about two and one-half inches thick and six to 
ten wide, to make a border all around the bed close to the 
line or rope, being careful to keep the outline perfect and 
distinct. These sods should be beaten severely with the 
back of the spade, to unite the sod with the soil, so that the 
roots of the grass will not dry out, but will root into the 
soil underneath. All the beds will be laid out and arranged 
in the same way. The border on either side of the walks 
should also be sodded, and if the sods can be had in abund- 
ance, all the remainder of the garden not used for walks or 
flower beds may be covered with them, care being taken 
that the sods are of uniform thickness, so that the surface 
will be comparatively smooth and level. If, however, the 
sods are not easily obtainable, the flower beds may be edged 
or bordered with bricks or fancy tiles ; they look quite nov- 
el, but to our taste are not nearly so pretty as the beautiful 
green hue of the grass. If only sufficient sods can be pro- 
cured for bordering purposes, lawn grass seed may be sown 
on the remainder at the rate of four bushels to the acre. 
Most all seedsmen have the different grass seeds that are 



09 



SUCCESSFUL FLORICULTURE. 



suitable for lawn making in mixture, under the genera 
name of lawn grass. - This should be sown early in the 
spring, so that it may have the benefit of the spring show- 
ers, and make a good growth before the hot dry July days 
come; indeed by that time the grass should need mowing. 
The Walks. These have already been laid out 'and 
bordered, and the good soil removed from them. The sur" 
face of the walks should be about two inches belOw the sur- 
face of the border ; to fill them up to this distance will be 
next in order. The surface may be paved, cemented, or 
fine gravel may be used. The walk should be tilled with 
sufficient coarse gravel to raise it with whatever is iiseid for 
the surface, to the required height. ' 'i 




Fig. 33,— floeal cross. 



IN THE GARDEN. 91 

Ornaments. We illustrate several beautiful designs of 
Vases and Statuary which will be very attractive in the 
garden or on the laAvn. Those made of Terra Cotta, ware 
a sample of which we show by Fig. No. 33 are in our opinion 
decidedly preferable to those made of iron. 




Fig. 33.— terea cotta vase. 



92 SUCCESSFUL FLORICULTURE. 




CHAPTER XV. 

PLANTING OF FLOWER BEDS. 

ii^-^^$^'^ are now almost ready to plant our flowers, 
WA wi'El^^^ one small operation is yet necessary to 
A Jii. i. r? jjjj^]^g ii^Q jjgfig ready for their intended occu- 
pants. The beds should be somewhat higher 
than the general level of the surroundings. 
In digging the beds the soil should be sUgliihj 
raised in the centre and gradually fall to the 
border, at which point it should be about two 
inches helow the level of the top of the bed. The object in 
raising the centre is to show the plants more prominently. 
Be careful that this be not carried to such an extreme that 
all the water will drain off. The objects in recommending 
that the soil at the border of the bed be lower than the sur- 
rounding, are: It keeps the outlines plain and distinct^ 
and to a great extent prevents the grass from encroaching 
upon the space occupied by the flower bed. This having 
been done, the beds are ready for planting. This is a very 
important oj)eration ; not that it requires a great amount of 
skill to remove a plant from a pot and put it in a hole in the 
ground, but because in order to produce a beautiful effect 
we must use judgment in the arrangement of our plants. To 
be enabled to use this judgment we must be acquainted 
with the habits and colors of the flowers of the plants we 
intend using. We have frequently seen handsome plants 
bedded out by novices who had no idea what the plants 
would grow to be ; all they knew about them was that they 
looked pretty in the greenhouse, and they should look 



PLANTEfG OF FLOWER BEDS. 93 

pretty in the garden. The plants were all about the same 
size, and from this (if at all) the inference was drawn that 
they all grew with the same rapidity. The result of this 
promiscuous planting was that some of the tender plants 
died, and the rapid growing varieties smothered the weaker, 
thus making the bed, instead of a thing of beauty and pride, 
an irregular mass of confusion and a constant reminder that 
our ideal ftower bed is a miserable failure. Without stop- 
ping to inquire into or investigate the why and the wherefore 
of this failure, the disappointed novice declares that he or* 
she " cannot grow plants to make them look as pretty as Mr. 
A's or Mrs. B's, and if I can't have them as pretty as any 
other person, I won't have them at all." This is why many 
persons do not grow plants because " the plants don't do 
right." ^^ My dear reader, the plants will grow themselves, 
if you give them half a chance. The fault lies with the 
cultivator; through his ignorance the plants are cruelly 
trcf^ted, and because they do not show their gratitude they 
" don't do right ; and I won't bother with them any more." 
If the above has been your experience, our advice is to 
study well the requirements and habits of plants in every 
sense of the word. Know your plants, treat them well, and 
they will prove a source of unceasing and unalloyed pleasure, 
but we have only been speaking of wrong doing and the re- 
i^ults of it ; let us see how we can do these things right in 
regard to bedding out our plants. 

There are a number of styles of arranging different habited 
plants in the garden. These are popularly known as the 
"Ribbon Lines," "Massing," "Sub-Tropical," "Carpeting," 
and the old way of " Mixing." Each of these modes has 
its advantages, and perhaps none of them can be dispensed 
with. The reader, in order to properly decide which will 
be most appropriate, must take into consideration the sur- 
roundings and the extent of the garden. We can make 
gojd u^e of the design employed in laying out the garden, 



94 



SUCCESSFUL FLORICULTUEE. 



With this design and a box of water color paints, procured 
at a nominal cost from any stationer, we can paint the 
flower beds any color or colors desired. By this we can see 
what our garden will be. If the arrangement does not 
suit, or the colors do not harmonize, it will be an easy mat- 
ter to make any change that seems to be necessary. We 
can also by this process learn just what kinds of plants we 
need and how many of each, to make our garden complete. 
In coloring our design and in making the selection, if the 
space and circumstances will permit, it might be advisable 
to have a specimen bed of each style of arrangement, as the 
whole will have rather an informal though none the less 
fascinating appearance. 




Flo. 34— SECTION OF FLOWER BED, RIBBOX LINE STTLB. 

Ribbon Lines. This name is given to that style of bed- 
ding wherein the plants of each are arranged in a line by 
using plants whose flowers or foliage form a strong contrast 
with those in the line in front and those in the line behind, 
the most charming effect may be pi'oduced. There is a 
great variety of plants suitable for forming Ribbon Line 
beds, principal among which may be mentioned Cannas, 
Achyranthes, Coleus, Centaureas, Ornamental Grasses, Gera- 
niums, Salvias, Golden Feverfew, Alternanthera, etc. In a 
bed of this description the plants must be properly arranged 
at the time of planting this in reference to the habit and 
growth ©f the plants. If only one side of the bed is ex" 



PLANTING OF FLOWER BEDS. 95 

posed, tlie tall growing plants must be planted at the back, 
the next tallest in the next row, and so on down to the 
outside or border line, which should not be more than 
six inches in height. During the summer the tops oi 
some of these plants will require to be pinched out; this 
will cause the plants to branch out and make the plants in 
the bed more compact ; but this is only a secondary consid. 
eration ; the principal object in pinching out the tops is to 
keep the 'plants at their proper height in comjxirison with 
the row in front and behind, so that the whole bed will pre- 
sent a uniform appearance, gently sloping from the back 
down to the front. If both sides of the bed are exposed, the 
same plants should be used on either sides. This style is not 
confined to long beds where only straight lines can be used. 
It can be employed in beds shaped like stars, shields, circles, 
hearts, etc., in fact, beds of almost any shape, though in 
most of these it will require more skill and precision in 
planting. 

Massing. For this purpose such plants are used as are 
continuous bloomers, such as Geraniums, Verbenas, and 
many others we might name. Any one color is selected for 
a bed ; for instance, we might have one bed filled with Scar- 
let Geraniums, another with White or Purple Verbenas, 
another filled with Phlox Drummondi, mixed colors or any 
one color. It is usual, however, to only have one color in 
each bed, as the " mass " is more attractive than if the colors 
are varied. 

Carpet Bedding. This mode of planting is compara- 
tively but little known in this country, although it is 
extremely popular in some parts of Europe, and no doubt 
will be in this country when it becomes more generally 
known. This style of bedding takes its name from the class 
of plants that are used, they all being of dwarf habit, and 
are planted so closely as to form a complete covering or 
carpet over the bed. None of the plants used for this pur- 



96 SUCCESSFUL FLORiCULTUHE. 

pose should be allowed to grow more than six inches in 
height. Those generally used are Alternanthera, Artemesia, 
Lobelia, Pansies, Moneywort, Ivies, Echeverias, Mesembry- 
anthemums, etc., etc. As we have already intimated, the 
plants being of dwarf habit, it is requisite that they be 
planted quite thickly in order to produce a complete carp'et ; 
hence a goodly number of plants must be used. This num- 
ber we cannot give, as it will depend on the variety and 
growth of plants, as a " carpet " w'ith holes in it is not at all 
pleasing anywhere. This mode is especially desirable if the 
flower beds are small and of fancy designs, or if the design 
is composed of a number of flower beds the outlines of which 
it is necessary to keep clear and distinct so that the desired 
effect of the whole may not be marred by any irregularity. 
Some of the plants may require trimming during the sum- 
mer ; this should not be neglected, but should rather be done 
just as soon as necessary. 

Sub-Tkopical Garden. This is composed of very rapid 
growing plants, natives of tropical countries, which in our 
short seasons produce such majestic specimens of tropical 
luxuriance that they in imagery carty us to climes where it 
is always summer and the air is laden with the aroma of 
some of our most delicious fruits and flowers. These plants, 
of which the Oannas, Ricinus and Caladium Es^culentura 
are types, may be planted in groups or singly in rich earth, 
or they may be arranged somewhat in Ribbon Line shape, 
as the taste may dictate. 

Mixed. The modes of planting heretofore described are 
only suitable for those who have room for quite a large 
number of plants and who can afford to spend a part of their 
w^ealth in this Avay. There is another class of people whose 
love for ftoAvers is unlimited, and if their purses would 
permit they would have an exeellent collection, but 
their means will only admit of the possession of a few. And 
the question now before us is, How can these be arranged 



PLANTING OF FLOWER BEDS. 



97 



to show to tbe best advantage ? Arrange tliem, the tallest 
growers at the back or in the centre of the bed, as recom- 
mended in "Eibbon" gardening, the smallest in front, 
keeping in mind how the plants will look when in bloom, to 
see if the colors of flowers and foliage will form a proper 
contrast. This is all we can do, but if this is well done we 
shall receive as much pleasure from our few plants as those 
who are favored with broad acres teeming with beauty and 
fragrance. 




98 SUCCESSFUL FLORICULTURE. 




CHAPTER XVI. 

SOWING THE SEED AND MANAGEMENT OF 
SEEDLINGS. 

ERHAPS in no department of floriculture 
liave we heard of so many failures and so 
many complaints as in tlie seed lousiness, and 
I we are not surprised at this. There are two gi-eat 
'causes for these failures: Ignorance on the part 
of the cultivator, and (we don't like to use the 
Avord, but suppose we must,) disJiovesty on the 
part of the seedsmen. Now to explain : Seeds 
are in many respects peculiar; there is as great a difference 
in them as there is in members of the human family. So in 
order that we may grow them successfully we must under- 
stand at least the most prominent traits in their character. 
The catalogue of almost every seedsman in the country will 
give you this information: It will tell you the nature, habit, 
growth, etc.; with this information, together with what 
general remarks we may make, may give some light on the 
subject that we hope may prove beneficial. Looking at the 
subject in this way it is not surprising to us to hear that a 
person who sowed Begonia, Calceolaria or Gloxinia seeds 
in the open border in May, had utterly failed ; indeed it 
would be more surprising to hear that he had succeeded. 
Yet the seed may have been- as good as ever had been sown, 
and Avould have undoubtedly germinated under fjxvorable 
circumstances, but through ignorance on the part of the 
cultivator, the good seeds did not give satisfaction. 

During the past few years, owing to an endeavor to in- 
crease their business and to make more money, many old 



SOWING AND MANAGING SEEDLINGS. 99 

scedis that have lost their vitality have been sold, aud to de- 
feat the ends of justice, some seedsmen have placed a dis- 
claimer on their seed bags or packets to the effect that it 
was mutually agreed that the seller was not to be held re- 
sponsible for any damage that might occur by the failure of 
the seeds to grow^ This is a declaration that the seller was 
in doubt about the article, and for this reason dare not 
warrant them, and if you buy them, you buy them at your 
own risk. What would you think of your clothier or shoe 
dealer who made you such an answer? Many seeds are 
now sent to every village and hamlet in the land -to be sold 
on commission ; this rate of commission ranges from forty 
to seventy per cent, on all sales, the unsold seeds to be re- 
turned at the end of the season, to be sent ont the noxt sea- 
son in the same manner. This mode is a fraud on the 
American people, and it should be abolished. To every 
reader of tMs we desire to say emphatically: Don't buy 
seeds -from any firm who send seeds out to be sold on com- 
mission; if you do you will regret it. The catalogues usu- 
ally divide seeds into four principal classes: Annuals, 
Biennials, Perennials and Greenhouse. 

Sowing the Seeds. When it is desired to have the 
plants in bloom real early in the season, the seeds should 
be sown in pots or shallow boxes in March or April ; fill the 
jiot or box two-thirds full of broken pots, moss, charcoal, or 
any other substance that water will readily drain through ; 
cover this with one or two inches of soil comj)osed of one 
part loam, two parts leaf soil and one part sand thoroughly 
mixed and pulverized; on this sow the seeds and cover 
with the same compost to the depth of about twice the di- 
ameter of the seed, not more. They should now be watered 
with a fine sprinkler, and from this time the soil should 
never be allowed to become dry ; the surface may be light- 
ly covered with Sphagnum or moss ; this will prevent the 
rays of the sun from drying and baking the soil; this must 



100 SUCCESSFUL FLORICULTURE. 

be removed as soon as the seedlings appear. The box may 
be covered with glass; this will keep off the cold air and 
greatly assist vegetation; however, as soon as the seedlings 
appear, air should be admitted freely. The box, as soon 
as the seed is sown, should be kept as nearly as possible in 
a temperature of from sixty to seventy degrees. As soon 
as the seedlings have developed the second pair of leaves, 
they should be pricked out into boxes or small pots ; if put 
in boxes they should be planted from two to four inches 
apart or planted singly in pots; shade from the sunlight 
until they have fully recovered, then place them close to 
the glass to incite a strong, sturdy growth. As soon as all 
danger from frost is past, plant them out in the prepared 
bordei% where they are to bloom. In sowing, remember that 
soaking for several hours in warm water will greatly hasten 
the germination of all hard-shelled seeds, such as Cypress 
Vine, Cannas, etc. By removing the cottony liusk from 
Abronia, Globe Amaranth and other like seeds, the ger- 
mination will be greatly facilitated. When we do not de- 
sire to have the plants in bloom early, we may defer sowing 
the seeds until the increasing heat of the sun wawns the 
earth, when they may be sown in a prepared bed in the 
garden, in the same way as described for sowing in boxes ; 
the after treatment will be the same, except that in prick- 
ing them out, they may be planted where they Avill ulti- 
mately bloom. ' However the seeds of what are known as 
Greenhouse plants should not be sown in the garden ; they 
are too delicate to bear this, and must be carefully at- 
tended. 



HOUSE PLANTS. 101 



CHAPTER XVII. 

HYGIENIC AND THERAPEUTIC RELATIONS OF 
HOUSE-PLANTS. 

BY J. M. ANDEKS, M. D., PH. D. 

Read before the Alumni of the Auxiliary Department of Medicine, Univer- 
sity of Pennsylvania, February 6, 1880. 

An article in relation to any important matter, especially- 
one whereby from tlie information derived from it we may 
be benefitted or injured to any considerable extent, should 
demand close investigation; and if advice is given, we 
should, before acting upon that advice, ascertain if the wri- 
ter is an authority upon that subject. The author of the 
subjoined article, (which we extract from the Philadelphia 
Medical Times, May 8th, 1880,) Mr. J. M. Anders, M. D., 
Ph. D., of Philadelphia, Pa., is perhaps the highest author- 
ity on the subject in the United States, probably the high- 
est in the world. We regret that we cannot devote suffi- 
cient space to copy the whole article ; we only give that 
which will be of most interest to our readers, at the same 
apologizing to Dr. A. for mutilating his article, and thank- 
ing him for in this particular giving us such an excellent 
remedy : 

" The old question of the effects of living plants on the 
air of houses is one of considerable interest. The family 
doctor is ofttimes confronted with the query, 'How do 
plants in rooms affect the health of the inmates?' Former- 
ly it was the universal opinion that they were injurious to 
health, particularly in the sleeping room and sick-chamber. 
Unfortunately, this still continues to be a popular impres- 
sion. To review the various views on this subject down to 



102 SUCCESSFUL FLORICULTURE. 

the present would be foreign to the scope of this article and 
quite out of place. The di.-^cussion will necessarily be cou- 
liucd to the present state of our knowledge concerning the 
subject, and especially such of its bearings as are interesting 
from a medical point of view. 

Three of the chief functions in plant life are the absorp- 
tion of carbonic acid, the exhalation of oxygen and the g(n- 
eration of ozone. Now, it has been conclusively shown 
that variations in the amount of these gases from the pres- 
ence of any number of plants have no appreciable effect on 
the air of an apartment, the absorption and exhalation of 
these substances being carried on too slowly either to im- 
prove or to vitiate the air. 

There is, however, yet another process in plants, which 
in this connection is of far greater importance, viz., that of 
trauqnratwn. By this term is meant the exhalation of 
moisture by the leaves. About this function very little was 
known until recently. Careful investigations of the subject 
have been made by the writer, to which brief reference 
only can be made here. It may suffice to say that the av- 
erage rate of transpiration for plants having soft, thin 
leaves, as the geranium, lantana, etc., is one and a half 
ounces (by weight) of watery vapor per square foot of leaf 
surface for twelve diurnal hours of clear weather. In or- 
der to convey some notion of the great activity of this func- 
tion, it might be stated that at the above rate the Washing- 
ton elm, at Cambridge, Massachusetts, with its two hundred 
thousand square feet of leaf-surface, would give off seven 
and three-quarter tons of water in twelve hours. In the 
twenty-four hours an indoor plant will traspire more than 
half as much as one in the open air. It would appear to 
follow naturally from these facta that growing plants would 
be capable of raising the proportion of aqueous vapor of 
the air of closed apartments. And this suggestion prompted 
the writer to make observations with the view of establish- 



HOUSE PLANTS. 103 

ing this fact experimentally. By means of the hydrometer, 
the atmosphere of two rooms at the Episcopal Hospital, in 
which the cowditions smi dimensions were in every respect 
similar, were tested simultaneously, in order to note the va- 
riations produced by growing plants. In the window of one 
of the rooms were situated five thrifty plaats, the other con- 
tained none. 

For eighteen consecutive days the dew-point of the room 
containing plants gave an average complement one and a 
half degrees lower than the room in which there were no 
plants. Thinking that possibly this difference of humidity 
might not be owing solely to the presence of plants, the 
conditions were varied, and further observations made with 
similar results. 

It is true that in special states of the system — e. g., in 
chronic rheumatism — dry heat is beneficial; but this is no 
argument against the benefit ordinarily derived from a 
proper amount of moisture in the atmosphere. On the other 
hand, if the presence of a certain number of thrifty plants 
in an occupied room warmed by dry air would have the ef- 
fect of raising the relative humidity to the extent indicated, 
it is clear that we possess in them the readiest means of ob- 
viating these evil consequences. In all instances, then, in 
which artificial heat is used, but particularly in the case of 
dry air, as that furnished by furnaces, plants become, uuder 
proper regulations, hygienic agents of special value. 

Were this article intended for popular reading, much 
might also be said in favor of keeping house-plants for the 
benefit they confer in delighting our senses and ministering 
to our aesthetic tastes ; but' we are discussing the question 
from a strictly medical point of view, and such matter 
would seem somewhat irrelevant. 

Of course it is chiefly in diseases of a chronic nature, and 
particularly those affecting the lungs and air-passages, that 
we should expect to derive good results from such a meas- 



104 SUCCESSFUL FLORICULTURE. 

ure as stocking the sick-room with growing pknts, for it is 
in such cases that dry heat does the most harm. Still, they 
would prove beneficial also, in a less degree, in acute dis- 
eases, especially the continued fevers, and, perhaps, mem- 
braneous croup, where moisture in the air is so desirable 
House-plants h^ve, however a sphere of usefulness which is 
independent of atmospheric humidity. In nervous disorders 
of the functional class, such as melancholia and chlorosis, in 
diseases of the mind proper, and in other allied conditions 
(excessive grief, ennui, etc.,) where it is necessary to divert 
the mind or relieve tension, nothing is more efficient than 
the pleasing occupation of studying and caring for plants. 

But it is in that sweeping disease phthisis that plants of- 
fer the best hope of success as therapeutic agents. The im- 
portance of the point demands that it should receive careful 
attention. 

Deeming it necessary that the experimental data should 
receive supporting evidence of an unequivocal character be- 
fore the efficacy of plants in the treatment of this disease 
would be firmly established, the writer opened a correspond- 
ence with some prominent practitioners, besides making in- 
quiries of those with whom he came in contact, soliciting a 
brief statement of their observations in regard to the efiects 
of plants on the sick.* The almost unvarying response has 
been in the following terms : 'I cannot help you, for my 
attention has never been directed to the pointe in question.' 
A notable exception is the letter of my friend Dr. Hiram 
Corson, of Conshohocken, Pennsylvania, who, after stating 
that a number of his relatives had died of consumption, 
continues as follows : *I mention these cases to show that 
the germs of the disease were with tiie family. Thirty 
years ago my eldest sister, then above fifty years of age, was 

*The writer would stiU be sfrateful for any interestlns!: information upon 
tills subject, fur without aid itwould be almo§L impossible to istrthl'- 'i the 
position taken or to correct temporary coiicIusiunSiand he wishes tt .uake 
a further study upon the subject. Acldress 1638 North Eight Street, Phil- 
adolphlA 



HOUSE PLANTS. 105 

reported by her physician, Dr. J. P., a victim of tubercular 
consumption, to which disease she would succumb before 
the coming summer. She was a lover of plants and flow- 
ers and cultivated them in-doors and out. The spring saw 
her again moving among her plants, and the winter found 
her confined to the house, and sometimes for weeks to her 
bed-chamber, which, like the sitting room, was literally a 
green-house. Visitors and friends often spoke to her of the 
impropriety of having so many growing plants in her room, 
reminding her of the tradition that they were injurious. 
Still, every spring found her again on her feet, in the yard 
and garden, nursing her plants, and every winter confined 
to her room. And thus she lived, year after year, until two 
years ago, when, at the age of eighty-five, she passed away. 
I have seen a few others have plants growing and blooming 
in their chamber, but never one who so lived among them 
as did my sister. Winter after winter we looked for her 
death, the cough, expectoration and weakness justifying 
our apprehensions, and yet her eighty-fifth year found her 
cheerful and happy, living among her plants and enjoying 
the society of her friends. May we not believe that the vast 
exhalation from these plants — water purified and medica- 
ted by their vital chemistry — prolonged her life?'" 

After citing a number of other interesting cases, Dr. An- 
ders says : 

" From the above cases it will be seen that what we had 
deduced from experimental results concerning the health- 
giving effects of plants (which is owing to transpiration in- 
creasing the humidity of the air, — the plants acting as nat- 
ural and perfect ' atomizers') is entirely in harmony with 
what is observed concerning the effect of sufficiantly moist 
warm air in many cases of phthsis ; and if it istnie, as we 
have attempted to demonstrate, that house-plant hygiene 
constitutes a valuable preventive measure where there is 
hereditary tendency to certain diseases, then it ought to be 



106 SUCCESSFUL FLORICULTURE. 

definitely and thoroughly understood, and it is of vital im- 
portance that it should be adopted in cases where there is a 
known pre-disposition to phthisis, for half the cases are sup- 
posed to be preventable, whereas if the disease be allowed 
to develop complete recovery is not to be expected. Fur- 
thermore, though' the keeping of plants does not 'cure' con- ' 
firmed cases of phthisis, it is nevertheless very useful to 
prolong life, and by ameliorating the distressing symptoms 
renders existence at least endurable, — an office not to be 
despised in such a wide-spread and lingering disease. 

Observation teaches that advanced cases of phthsis, (as, 
for instance, where cavities exist,) are benefited by a decid- 
edly more moist atmosphere than is required in health, and 
hence they will require a much greater profusion of plants 
in the roum than those who have the disease in a more in- 
cipient stage. 

The plants should be well selected and kept in a thriving 
condition. The chief j)oint to be borne in mind in the se- 
lection of the plants are, first, that they have soft, thin 
leaves; secondly, foliage plants, or those having extensive 
leaf-surface, are to be preferred ; thirdly, those which are 
highly-scented (as the tuberose, etc.) should be avoided, as 
they often give rise to headache and other unpleasant 
symptoms. 

In order to facilitate a practical application of the data 
gained by experiment, the following formula has been care- 
fully prepared : Given a room twenty feet long, twelve 
feet wide, and ceiling twelve feet high, warmed by dry air 
a dozen thrifty plants with soft, thin leaves and a leaf-sur- 
fiice of six square feet each would, if well watered and so 
situated as to receive the direct rays of the sun (preferably 
the morning sun) for at least several hours, raise the pro- 
portion of aqueous vapor to about the health standard. 

This formula may serve as a guide in the use of plants 
for hygienic purposes; but under conditions of actual dis- 



HOUSE PLANTS. 107 

ease it Avill be necessary to increase the proportion of plants 
according to the degree of humidity sought, or as the indi- 
cation of individual cases demand. 

It should be stated that, to obtain the best results, both 
the rooms occupied during the day and the sleeping-apart- 
ment should contain plants. It was for a long time the 
opinion of scientific interpreters generally that plants in 
sleeping-apartments were unwholesome because of their giv- 
ing off carbonic acid gas at night ; but it has been shown 
by experiment that it would requii*e twenty thrifty plants 
to produce an amount of the gas equivalent to that exhaled 
by one baby sleeper : so this is no valid objection to their 
admission, and not to be compared with the benefit arising 
from their presence. 

We have no desire to underrate other means of treatment 
while upholding the importance of our subject. Exercise 
in the open air is of immense advantage in phthisis, and 
during the warm season the consumptive should be moving 
among his garden plants, and, if he be a lover of flowers, 
should assume personal charge of them. Again, no one will 
dispute the value of certain tropical climates for judiciously 
selected cases of phthisis ; but the practice of indiscrimin- 
ately sending patients to them is certaialy to be deprecated. 

New health-resorts (many of them comjiarable only to 
the patent nostrums) are constantly being pressed upon the 
public, but too often a trial of them brings only disappoint- 
ment, and the consumptive is rendered more miserable by 
the annoyance of travel and the anxiety of being seperated 
from all the endearing relations of home. 

To have always at hand and readily available so com- 
plete and withal so agreeable a health resort at home as 
that of a room well-sto«ked with plants must prove an ines- 
timable boon to the despairing invalid." 

We can only say that our own experience corroborates 
the testimony of a number of florists interviewed by Dr. 



108 



SUCCESSFUL FLORICULTURE. 



Anders, who all believe that the working with and among 
plants is beneficial; and among all our acquaintances in 
the profession we know of none who think otherwise. 




Specific Directions for tlie CnlliYa lioii of Plants and Bullis. 

In the following pages we give a great amount of infor- 
mation relative to each of almost all plants and bulbs in 
commerce. The soils indicated are to be used when the 
plants are grown in pots. Always use a little sand in the 
soil, sufficient to make the soil porous. The moisture indi- 
cated is to be applied to the roots of the plants. For mois- 
ture in the air, see chapter on moisture. 

The heat indicated is for the winter season, or when the 
weather is colder than the amount of heat noted. When 
no heat is indicated it is understood that the plant or bulb 
is perfectly hardy here. 

In some instances different varieties of the same species 
require quite different conditions to grow them to perfection. 
We divide these as best we can without quoting the varie- 
ties in detail. 

In this list we have not quoted many of our popular 
plants that are grown from seed. AVe do not think it nec- 
essary, as we have in another chapter written how to grow 
them. 

Those marked * are teuder bulbs which should be kept 
warm and dry during the winter. The treatment herewith 
given is for the growing season. 

We have found it impossible to give all the information 
that may be needed in the space occupied, the plants in 
many instances requiring a diflei'ent course o. [reatmcnt at 
other seasons of the year. Yet we believe we can glean suf- 
ficient knowledge of the needs of the plants to be successful 
in cultivating them. 

EXPLANATION. 

Light — 1 full sunlight ; 2 morning sun only ; 3 shade. 
Moisture^ — 1 abundant ; 2 moderate ; 3 sparingly. 
H is for those suited for house or pot culture only. 
B is f«r those suited chiefly f©r bedding purposes. 
HB is for those suitable for both house and bedding cul- 
ture. 



IVamo ol* 

PLANT OR BULB. 


BOIL. 


o 

s 

I 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 

I 

2 
3 

1 
1 

2 
2 


w 
> 

35 

5') 
r-o 
do 

60 
fi5 
50 
55 
40 
50 

60 
45 
45 
50 

ro 

5') 
50 
40 
50 
70 
55 
60 
CO 

51 
60 
70 
45 
65 
40 
60 
60 
60 
50 
60 
40 

60 
60 
60 
50 
45 

65 
45 
50 
45 
60 
70 
60 

60 
45 
60 
55 
50 
4ft 


O 

VH 

w 

>i 

w 

ts 

2 
2 
2 
2 

2 

2 
1 
2 
2 
2 

3 
2 
3 
2 
2 
2 
1 
3 
3 
2 
2 
2 
2 
1 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
3 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
1 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
3 
2 
2 
2 
3 
3 


Q 
d 


B 


-3 
fi 

1 
1 
2 

1 

1 
1 

1 
2 

1 

2 
] 
2 

1 
I 

2 
2 

2 

1 
2 

1 

1 
1 

1 


1 

2 
.3 
2 

1 
1 

2 

1 

1 
1 

1 

1 
1 
1 

2 

1 

1 

1 

2 

2 
2 
2 
2 
2 

1 

1 

1 


C 


Abella 


H B 


Abutilon, (Flowering Maple) 


H H 


Acacia 


H 


Acalypha 


HB 


Acantlius 


ri 


Achillea 


B 


♦Achimenes 


11 
HB 


Acorus 


H 


Adiantum, (Fern) 


n 


Adonis 

.aiehmaeg 


B 
H 


-brides, (Orchid) see special note 


H 


-d^schy nan thus 


H 


Agapanthus, (African Lily) 


HH 


Agave, (Century Plant) 


HB 


Ageratum 


HH 


Aliebia 


B 


Allamanda 


H 


Alocasia 


RR 


Aloe 


HB 


Aloysia, (Lemon Verbena) 


HR 


Alsophylla 


H 




B 


Alyssum 


HB 


♦Amaryllis 


HH 


♦Amorphophallis 


HB 


Ampelopsis 


B 


Anemones 


HB 


Anthcricum 


HR 


Anthuriiim 


H 


Aphelandra 


H 


Aphelexes 


H 


Aralia 


H 


Araucaria 


HR 


Ardisia 


H 


Arcca 


H 


Argyrea 


H 


Aristolochia 


HH 


Arlocarpus 


H 


Arundo 


B 


Asphodelns 


B 


Aspidistra 

Astrocaryum 


H 
H 


Attalea 


H 


Aucuba 


HR 


Azalea 


H 


Balm 


H 


15ambusa 


HH 


Banksia 


HH 


♦Batatas 


H 


Beauearnea 


H 


Begonia Rex 


H 


Begonia F'lowering 


H H 


♦Begonia 'ruherous 


HB 


Bisnonia, (Trumpet Creeper) 


B 


Billbergia 


H 


♦Blandiordia 


HR 


]{letia 


H 


Bocconia 


H R 


BoTiapartea 


H R 


Koronia 


M R 



Name of* 

PLANT OR BULB. 


SOIL. 



^ 

1 

1 
2 
1 
1 
2 
1 
2 
1 
1 
1 
2 
1 
1 

1 

2 

1 
1 
1 
2 
1 
1 
2 
1 

1 
2 
1 
2 
2 
1 
1 
1 
2 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
2 
2 
1 
1 
1 
2 
1 
1 
1 
2 
1 
1 
1 
2 
1 
2 
3 
1 
1 
1 
2 


» 
r3 

55 

m 

CO 
55 
50 
35 
80 
60 
50 
50 
60 
65 
CO 
50 
60 
■15 
45 
60 
1)0 
50 
56 
50 
60 
55 
65. 

50 
60 
50 
"5 
50 
55 
40 
45 
70 
40 
50 

55 
60 
60 
60 
60 
55 
60 
50 

45 
50 
60 
60 
60 
60 
50 
60 
6) 
65 
60 
50 
45 
60 
65 


o 

3 

H 

d 
W 
H 

2 
2 


C3 


o 
B 

2 

1 
1 

1 

1 
1 
2 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 

i 

2 

1 

1 
1 

2 
1 

1 
1 
1 
2 
2 
2 
2 

1 
2 

1 
1 

1 
2 

! 

2 
1 
2 

1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
3 
2 

3 

1 
2 
2 

1 
2 

2 
1 

1 


a 

1 

2 

1 

1 

1 
3 

2 

1 

1 
1 

1 

1 

2 

1 

1 
1 
1 

1 

2 
2 
1 

2 


O rr 

r;p 

: '-^ 

1 

1 

1 
1 

1 

1 
1 

1^ 

I 

1 
1 

1 

1 
1 

1 
1 

1 

1 

1 
1 

2 

1 
2 

1 

1 

1 
1 
2 

1 
1 

2 






H 




HU 


Bowenia ^ 


2 


Brassia, (Orchid) 


2 H 




2 H 


*Biodia) 


2 
2 
2 
1 
3 
1 
1 
2 
2 
1 
2 
2 
3 
1 

2 
2 
2 
2 
2 

2 
2 
3 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
1 
2 
2 
2 
3 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
3 
2 
2 
2 
1 
2 


H 


Bertolonia 


B 


Cactus. 


i , 




Ji 




HI5 




H 




HU 


Calla Lily of tlie Nile 


}"■. 




H 


Camellia 


It 




11 




1! 




:h 




h 




UB 


Carol inea 


±i 


Caryota (Fish Tail Palm) 


H 




U 






Centaurea 


HB 
H 


Cereus 


H 
H 




H 




HB 


Choisya., 


HB 




HB 




H 


Clematis, (A'iigin's Bower) 


Hll 
HB 


(Ueinatis (some vaiietiesare entirely hardy 


HB 
H 


Clitoria 


HB 


Cohen 


UB 
HB 




H 




HB 


Coleus 

*Colocasia 

Convalliiria 


HB 

HB 

B 




HI? 




H 




HB 


Coryplia, (Palm) 


H 
HB 




H 




HB 




H 




H 
H 




U 


Cycas, (Palm) 


H 




H 




HB 




H 



IVame of" 

PLANT OR BULB. 


SOIL,. 


o 

n 
.►^ 

1 
1 

2 
2 
2 

2 

1 

I 

1 

1 

2 

1 

1 

1 

2 

1 

1 

1 

2 

2 

1 

1 

1 

2 

2 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

2 

I 

1 

1 

1 

2 

2 

1 

2 

1 

1 

2 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

2 

2 

1 

1 

1 

2 

1 

1 

2 

1 

2 

2 

1 

1 


> 

H 

40 
60 
40 
45 
65 
70 

50 
6.5 
60 
65 
60 
75 
50 
65 
55 
50 
50 
60 
45 
60 
45 
65 
45 
56 
36 
40 
50 
60 
70 
40 
45 
6) 
55 
40 
55 
50 
60 
45 
6) 
60 

45 
50 
i5 
45 
45 
45 
60 
60 
45 
(10 
65 
6) 
65 
35 
."SO 
55 
40 
35 




IB 

H 

d 
w 

H 

2 
1 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
1 
3 
2 
3 
2 
2 
2 
2 
3 
2 
2 
3 
2 
2 
3 
3 
2 
2 
2 
2 
I 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 

2 
2 
2 
2 
2 

2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
3 
2 


n 


f 
o 

V 

3 

1 
1 

1 
2 
2 

1 
1 

1 
2 
2 

1 

a 

2 

1 

2 
i 
1 
3 
1 
1 
1 

2 
2 
1 

1 
1 

1 
1 
2 

1 
2 

1 
I 
2 

1 
2 
2 

1 
2 
1 

2 

1 
1 
1 
2 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 

1 


a 

1 
1 


— ?° 

2 

2 

2 

1 
2 

1 
1 
3 
3 
2 

2 

1 

2 
2 

1 

1 
2 

1 

1 
I 

1 


d 
w 


Cytissis 


H 


*Dahlia 


B 


Daisy 


H K 


Daphne 

Davallia. (Fern) ......."....."!!!..!!. 

3)en(lrobium, (Orchid) 


H 
H 
B 


Deutzia 


HR 


Dianthus, (Pink) 


HB 


Dicentra, (Bleeding Heart) 


HR 


Dichorisandra 


TT 


Dicksonia, P'ern 

Dieffenbachia...^ !.'."..'.....'.'.... 

Dillenia 


H 
H 
H 


Dion, Palm 


H 


Dionea, Venus Fly Trap... . 


TT 


*Dioi=corea, Chinese Yam 


HR 


Dipladenia 


H 


Disandra 

Doodia, Fern 


H 
H 




H 




HR 




HB 




H 


Epacris 


H 




H 


Epiphyllum, Cactus ; 

Eranthemum 


H 
HR 


Erianthus 


B 


Erica 


HR 


Erythrina, preserve in winter like Dahliti's 
Eucodonia 


HB 
H 


Eucharis 


H 


Euonymus 


HR 


Eupatorium 


HR 


Euphorbia 


HR 


Fabiana 

Farfugium 


fIB 
HB 


Ferns 


n 


Ficu?, India Kubber Plant ........'. 

Fittonia 

Fragraria, Indian Strawberry!..'.'.'.!.".'!!! ".! 

Franci.sea 


H 
H 
HB 
H 


Fuchsia 

Funkia 


HB 
J5 


Gardena, Cape Jasmine !!!!!! 

O-azania....^ !!.!!..! 

Genista 


HR 
HR 
H 


Geranium Zonale 


H B 


Geranium Variegated 


HB 


Geranium Ivy 


HB 


Gcsneria 


H 


^Gladiolus 


HB 


Glaucium 

*Gloxinia ! 


HB 
H 


Gnaphalium 


HR 


Graptophyllum 


H 


Gvranogramina. Fern 


2 i 1 
2 '• 


H 


Gynerium, Pampas Grass 


B 


Habrothamnu.s 

Hartwegia, Orchid 


H 
H 


ilcaths 


HR 


Htdera, Ivy 




1 


HB 



IVamc of 

PLANT OE BULB. 


SOIL. 


o 
n 
.-^ 

1 

1 
1 
1 
I 

1 

2 

2 
I 
I 
1 
I 
2 
2 
1 
1 
V 

2 
1 
1 
1 
2 
1 
2 
1 
) 
1 
I 
2 
2 
1 
2 
2 
2 
1 
1 
2 
1 
2 
3 
2 
2 
1 
2 

1 
2 

1 
1 
2 
1 

1 

1 
2 

2 
I 

1 
2 

1 
2 


w 

H 
>■ 

r3 

60 

6'J 

40 
50 

60 

60 
50 

50 
45 

r>o 

50 
45 
50 
50 
55 
fiO 
35 
50 
45 
5.5 
60 
60 
50 
45 
55 
50 
3i 
45 
50 
60 
50 
55 

45 
60 
40 
50 
65 

70 
50 
50 
55 
70 
60 
45 
50 
55 
.50 
60 

50 
(iO 
70 
60 
45 
55 
4.5 

55 


o 

(B 

H 

d 
§ 

2 
2 

2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
I 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
3 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
3 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
1 
2 
2 
2 


Q 

q 

It" 

d 
» 

FT 


o 

p 

3 

2 
I 
1 

2 

2 

1 

1 

1 
2 
2 
1 
2 
1 
2 
1 
1 

1 
1 
1 
1 
2 

2 
2 
3 

1 
1 
1 
2 
2 
1 
2 
1 
1 

1 
2 

1 
1 
2 

1 

1 
2 

1 
1 
2 
2 
1 
2 
1 
2 
2 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 


re 

95 

1 
1 

1 

1 
1 

2 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 
I 

3 


(T> 

^P 

1 
I 

1 
1 

2 
I 

1 

1 

1 
2 

1 

2 

1 

1 

1 
3 

1 
2 




HR 


Hemerocallis 


R 




FIR 


Hibiscus 

Hollyhocks 


HB 

R 




K 


Hoya Wax Plant 


FT 




HR 




HR 


Iinantophyllum 


FTR 




HR 




H 




H 




HR 




HR 




FTR 




HR 


Lagerslrsemia, Crape Myrtle 


H 
HB 
HR 




HR 




H 


Ijasiandra 


H 




H 


Ledenbergia 


H 




H 




FTR 




HR 


J^ily of the Valley 


HR 


liinaria, Renilworth Ivy 

Liuum 


HR 


Livingstonia, Palm 


H 


Lobelia 


HB 
H 


Fjonicera, Honeysuckle 


R 




FtB 


liVcaste, Orchid 


H 


IjVChnis 


R 


Lycopodiiim, Moss 


H 




H 


Tjj'simacliia, Moneywort 


HR 




H 


»Made)ia Vine 


HR 




FT 




H 


Maraiita 


H 




HR 


:\lesembryanthemum. ., 


HR 




H 


Mimulus 


HR 




HR 


;\Tvosolis, l<orgf>t-Me-Not 


R 




HR 


Myrsyphyllum. Smilax 


U 


Nepenthes, Pitcher Plant 


H 


N'icotiana, Tobacco. 


H R 


IViphobilus, Fern 


HB 
H 




H B 


Odontoglowaum, Orchid 


H 







Name of 

PLANT OR BULB. 

Olea, Fragrant Olive 

Oncidium, Orchid 

Opuiitia, Cactus 

Othonna 

Oxalis 

Palms 

Pfeonles 

Panax 

Pancratium 

Pandanus, Screw Pine 

Panicum, Grass 

Pansy, Heart'»-ease 

Passiflora, Passion Flower 

Paullinia 

Pedilanthus 

Pelargonium 

Peperomia 

Pepinia 

Peristeria, Orchid 

PerlBtrophe 

Petunia. 

Phaius, Orchid.. 

Phaltenopsis, Orchid 

Philodendron 

Phlebodium, Fern „ 

Phlox 

Phoenix, Palm 

Phormium, New Zealand Flax 

PhystanthuS 

Pilen 

Pitcairnia 

Pittosporum 

Platycerium, Fern 

Pleione, Orchid 

Pleroma 

Plumbago 

Poinsettia 

*Pollanthes, Tuberose 

Poty podium. Fern , 

Polystichum, Fern , 

Pomegranate 

Primula, Primrose 

Prichardia, Palm 

Pteris, Forn , 

Pyrethrum 

Reinpckia 

Rhiipis, Palm , 

Rhododendron 

Rhyncospermum 

♦Richardia 

Ri Vina 

Rondeletia 

Roses, Monthly, for winter blooming.... 

" Hybrid Perpetual 

" Moss 

" Climbing ^... 

Ruella 

Rus.selia 

Sabal, Palm 

Salvia, Sage 

Sanchezia 



SOIL 




t^ 


K 


o 


r 


•t) 


CCM 




o 




O 0. 






5 


» 








d 












w 


1 






1 


50 


9. 


1 


3 


2 


2 


.S."! 


?. 


1 






1 


50 


?. 


'2 




1 


1 


45 


2 


1 






1 


iO 


^ 


3 


2 


2 


2 


00 


2 


1 






1 




2 


1 






1 


65 


?, 


2 


1 




1 


45 


3 


2 


1 




1 


00 


'^ 


1 






2 


60 


2 


1 






2 


40 


^ 


•2 




1 


1 


.50 


^ 


2 


1 


1 


1 


60 


2 


2 


1 




1 


80 


2 


1 






1 


45 


2 


1 




1 


2 


50 


2 


1 


2 




2 


r.5 


il 


1 


3 


2 


2 


fiO 


3 


1 






1 


50 


2 


1 






1 


50 


2 


1 


3 


2 


2 


flO 


2 








2 


(10 


2 


2 


1 




2 


60 


2 


1 


1 


2 


2 


55 


2 


1 






1 




2 


2 


1 




2 


00 


2 


1 






1 


.iO 


2 


2 


1 




1 


ft.i 


2 


1 






2 


.=iO 


2 


1 


2 


1 


1 


00 


2 


2 


1 




1 


45 


2 


1 


1 


2 


2 


55 


2 


1 


a 


2 


2 


60 


2 


2 


1 




1 


.5.S 


2 


1 






1 


60 


2 


3 




1 


1 


00 


2 


1 






1 


00 


2 


1 


i 


2 


2 


h;s 


2 


1 


1 


2 


2 


fi.T 


2 


1 






1 


45 


2 


1 




a 


2 


60 


2 


2 


1 




2 


60 


2 


1 


1 


2 


2 


55 


2 


1 






i 


40 


2 


1 






1 


.50 


2 


2 


1 




2 


55 


2 


1 


2 


1 


1 


45 


2 


2 


1 




1 


01 


2 


1 






1 


.50 


2 


2 




1 


1 


6) 


2 


2 


1 




1 


.56 


2 


1 






1 


60 


2 


1 






I 


35 


3 


1 






1 






1 






1 






1 






1 






2 


1 




1 


61 


2 


2 


I 


1 


1 


50 


2 


1 


2 


1 


2 


eo 


2 


1 






1 


.'0 


2 


1 


2 




1 


60 


2 



rHB 

H 
HB 

H 
HB 

H 
.B 

H 

HB 
HB 
HB 
HB 
HB 

H 
HB 
HB 

H 

H 

H 
HB 
HB 

H 

H 

H 

H 

B 

H 
HB 
HB 

H 

H 
HB 

H 

H 

H 
HB 

H 
HB 

H 

H 
HB 

H 
HB 

H 
HB 
HB 

H 
HB 

H 
HB 

H 

H 

HB 

B 

B 

B 
HB 
HB 

H 
HB 
HB 



IVaMi© of 

PLANT OR BULB. 


SOIL.. 


r 

i-i 
o 
n 
^ 

1 

2 
2 
1 

2 
1 
3 
1 
2 
1 
1 
2 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
2 
1 
1 
1 
2 
1 
2 
1 
1 
1 
1 
2 
2 
1 
1 
1 
1 
2 
1 
2 


> 

60 
50 
45 
50 
60 
50 
55 
SO 
60 
50 

70 
70 
50 
60 
50 
6) 
60 
50 
55 
60 

r.o 

60 
60 
60 
50 
(iO 
40 
,•0 
45 
6) 
65 
40 
50 
45 
55 
50 

65 


o 

00 

H 

w 

M 

2 
1 
2 

2 
2 
3 
2 
3 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
3 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
1 
3 
3 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 

2 


d 


o 

B 

1 
1 

1 

1 
1 

2 
1 
1 
1 
1 

1 
1 
1 
2 
2 
2 
1 
1 
2 
1 
1 
1 
2 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
2 

1 
2 
1 
1 
1 
1 


a 1 

2 

2 

2 

2 
1 

1 

1 

2 


O a> 
p» 

2 

1 
1 

2 

■ 1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 
•2 


q 


•Sandersonia ' 


HB 


Sairacenla Side-saddle Flower 


HR 




HR 


Scuttelaria 


HR 


Seaforthia, Palm 

Sedutn, Stone Crop 


H 
HR 




H 


Sempervivum House Leeks 


HR 




HR 


Solanum Jerusalem Cnerry 


HR 


Spirea 


R 


Stanhopea Orchid 


H 


Stophanotis 


H 


Stevia 


HR 




H 


Swainsonia 


H 


Tabernasmontana 


HR 


Tacsonia, see Fassiflora 


HR 


Tallnum 


HR 


Tecoma 


HR 


Tbrinax, Palm 


H 


Thymus, 


HR 


Thyrsacanthus 


H 


*Tigridia Tiger Flower 


HR 


Tillandsia 


H 


Torrenia 


HR 


Tradescantia 


HR 


*Trieyrtis 


HR 


Tritoma., Flame Flower 


R 


Vallismeriii 

Valletta 


H 

HR 


Vanda, Orchid 


H 


Vanilla, Orchid 

Verbena 


H 

HR 


Veronica , 

Vinca ^ 

Wigandla _ ^.... 

Woodwardla 


HR 
HB 

H 

H 


Zygopetalum, Orchid 


R 
H 



Note— Orchids. — Orchids for our purpose we will divide Into two 
classes— those that are usually grown In a soil and those that are grown 
in the air. Of the first It will not be necessary to give extended cultural 
directions. Of this class the Bletia is a type. As a rule they do quite 
well in a moist atmosphere in a temperature of from 00 to 70 deg. The 
soil in which they are grown should be such as water will readily drain 
through. Under no circumstances should water be allowed to remain 
about the roots. Of the second class we shall also write briefly inasmuch 
as we cannot do justice to this tribe In a foot note at the close of this 
volume. Kny of our readers who are specially interested in these plants 
should procure a work devoted to them alone. We have had very good 
success with orchids grown in pots as well as on logs. "If they are to b? 
grown in pots the mode of potting is as follows : A pot of suitable si/e 
having been selected, weplace inside of thlsas'nall pot inverted; around 
this pot place araall pieces of broken pots, peat and sphagnum ; flll the 
potwith those so full that when the plant is placed in the pot the base 
of the pseudo bulbs will be level with the rim of the pot. The plant being 
in position build up aronnd and between Its roots with coarser pieces of 



pots, peat and sphagnum, being careful not to injure the roots. Iftlie 
plants are to be grown in the air, cover a small log of wood with sphag- 
num, on this fasten the orchid securely, ana allow the rootsto hangfroni 
the log and obtain their nourishment from the moist atmosphere In 
regard to their culture, they need a period of rest prior to blooming; dur- 
ing the rest they require but very little moisture at the roots but should 
be syringed not less than once a week and be kept In a moist, cool at- • 
mosphere. Should the bulbs begin to shrivel, give a little more water. 
After the rest, when the plants are old enough they to begin to bloom af- 
ter which, should it appear necessary, they should be repotted and will 
then make a nice growth. During this time the atmosphere must nev,er 
be allowed to become otherwise tlian quite moist, and they should also 
have consid'jrable moisture at the roots. After the growth is completed 
withhold I he water and keep them dry and cool, seeing that they have 
only moisture sufiQcient to prevent shriveling. 




INDEX. 



Chapteu. Page. 

Introduction" 3 

I. — Soils for Plotting 7 

II.— Pots and Potting 10 

III. — Temperature and Moisture 18 

IV. — Insects 23 

V. — Winter-Blooming Plants 33 

VI. — Winter Protection 37 

VII. — Propagation 40 

VIII.— Ventilation and Light , 49 

IX.— The Window Garden 52 

X.— Training Plants 59 

XI.— Bulbs C2 

XI. — Hanging Baskets , G8 

XII^ — Aquariums and Ferneries 72 

XIII.— Plants by Mail or Express 82 

XIV.— In the Garden 85 

XV.— Planting of Flower Beds 92 

XVI. — Sowing the Seed and Management of Seedlings 98 

XVII. — Hygienic and Therapeutic Kelation of House Plants. ..101 
Specific Directions for the Cultivation of Plants and Bulbs 109 



36 91 



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